Interesting, how much power does the laser have to need to be able to burn the paint?
Haha, the board won‘t win any prices for sure. But for a first try I‘m still very happy.
Yes exactly. It checks the weather forecast however so it doesn’t water when it‘s raining. This way I don’t have to refill the canister too often. A better way would be to attach moisture sensors to the plants, but I don’t like having to change batteries constantly. This is a very simple solution but it works for me.
I just printed the design on a glossy paper and used an iron to transfer the toner from the paper onto the pcb (last image). The toner protects the underlying copper in the etching process, so only the free copper gets etched away. I used Na2S2O8 for etching.
Yes UV is so much nicer, I also use this method now when I‘m not ordering online.
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/21224914
> As I don‘t have a water outlet on my balcony I use a water tank and a pump for watering my strawberries. > I developed a controller for the pump which runs natively on Apple Homekit but I‘d like to change it to Matter and Threads in the future. > > ! > > ! > > ! > > ! > > !
Got another shot at C/2023 A3.
- Samyang 135mm f2.0
- Fuji X-T5
- 603 x 5s
- ISO 400
- Stacked, streched in Siril
- combined stars, comet and foreground in Photoshop
Ah ok, so I assumed you registered all your light frames onto your stars as your stars look very sharp. And that’s the normal way for every astro image you would normally do. A comet however moves so fast that its position changes even in the short time frame were you took the images.
So after registering all the images with the stars pattern you want to make a second registration were you mark the position of the comet on the first frame and on the last frame. With that now all images are aligned onto the comet and now the stars appear to move in the background. As your stars look so sharp I assumed you didn’t make the second registration. In DSS there is a comet mode for that but I haven’t worked with that so I can’t tell you about the workflow with that program.
Hope that helped in any way!
I do not have much experience with DSS, as far as I know the result should be very similar. „Lights“ is the term for a single exposure. The technique is basically the same no matter which software you use.
But if you have Siril specific questions feel free to drop any questions :)
It‘s hard to tell from your image, bit it appears you can even get a bit more details if you register your lights onto the comet itself and then stack all the images. I used Siril for the two step registration process.
But nice image nonetheless!
Lets see what the next days will bring. As the comet rises higher maybe it will be even more visible.
Your image looks not to bad either. On my phone the comet looked the same like yours.
Thanks for answering! Yes the comet moved quite a bit, but I stacked two images. One for the stars and one for the comet were I registered the images onto the comet itself. So the stream seems to be a real feature of the comet.
The comet is also visible on one single exposure as it is very bright. It was also visible to the naked eye. But stacking reveals even more details because it improves the signal to noise ratio. Also stacking helps removing unwanted objects like satellite trails, planes or moving clouds.
We got extremely lucky and got a tiny window of cloudless sky in an never ending sequence of cloudy nights. Also the conditions were a nightmare with severe light pollution and lights shining directly at our equipment.
- Samyang 135mm f2.0
- Fuji X-T5
- 158 x 5s
- ISO 125
- @f2.8
And maybe somebody here can explain to us what the ionized gas is that 'shoots out‘ in front of the comet?
Also do the colours seem to be correct? We tried our best at background extraction and maintaining the true colour, but the raw data was of poor quality. From images of other comets the dust tails normally seems to have a yellow/orange colour and only the plasma tail is blue.
Edit: found the answer to the Anti-tail. It shows the trail of dust were the comet has traveled, which appears to come out at the opposing side because of earths angle relative to the comet and sun.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm f2.0 lens
- Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
- Star Adventurer 2i
Images:
- 220 x 60s
- ISO 400
Processing:
- stacked in Siril
- remove green noise
- background extraction
- BlurXTerminator
- NoiseXTerminator (0.5)
- GHST
- final editing and recomposition in Photoshop
More details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/202996/deep_sky/ngc-1456/pleiades/by-maxi_franzi
We really struggled to combine RGB with Ha. For our first try at continuum subtraction however we are very pleased.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm f2.0 lens
- Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
- Star Adventurer 2i
- STC duo narrowband filter
Images:
- 288x 60s RGB
- 592x 60s narrowband
Processing:
- stacked in Siril
- remove green noise
- background extraction
- star removal on both rgb and Ha
- continuum subtraction with Pixelmath in Siril
- adding Ha to RGB with Pixelmath
- BlurXTerminator
- NoiseXTerminator (0.5)
- GHST
- final editing and recomposition in Photoshop
Full resolution and more details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/202859/deep_sky/ngc-206/m31-andromeda/by-maxi_franzi
I use uYou plus. It has to be installed via Altstore (which means you have to resign it once a week with a computer needed in the same network).
But it has the best features:
- Adblock
- Sponsorblock (automatically skips sponsor segments in videos)
- allows pip playback
- shows estimated dislikes again
Dank dem Gesetz haben wir nun endlich auch ein BKW. Unsere Hausverwaltung hat in der Eigentümerversammlung angekündigt, dass ein Ablehnen in Zukunft nicht mehr möglich sein wird, und so konnten alle Parteien überzeugt werden. War trotzdem ein langer Kampf, und ohne diesem Gesetz unmöglich.
Ich hoffe das wird vielen anderen genauso helfen.
Thanks for sharing! The software worked better than expected on your image!
On my research before purchasing the program I also stumbled over your linked forum post. However I found it very misleading, as the software does not generate details learned from other images but only works with data already in your image. As it is a deconvolution tool results can deviate slightly from the true nature. But that has little to do with AI being used here. I needed a whole semester at university to truly understand the maths behind it. My biggest problem is that the software isn't open source so one can't look into all the details. But there are already people working on open alternatives.
But this already is a very specific problem, don't forget that the biggest difference for good quality makes the data itself. I wish best of luck on your journey!
Oh and I forgot to mention that one other advice I would give is to search the darkest location to shoot from that you can access. Lightpollutionmap really helps with finding such places.
Edit: unstreched file with only background extraction and deconvolution: https://drive.proton.me/urls/QD4870ZMF4#uyVBYxKgWxgb
For untracked this looks not too bad. To improve I would do the following:
- in Siril: remove green noise, then photometric colour calibration
- reduce exposure length to 1s
- work on background extraction (maybe try GraXpert)
- if you are not already doing: take calibration frames, especially flats
Are you interested in sharing the raw stacked file? I use a (paid) deconvolution tool called BlurXterminator and I wonder if it can handle such extreme star shapes. If it works I will of course send you the file.
M31 shot only in Ha and OIII.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm f2.0
- Fuji X-T5 unmodified
- Star Adventurer 2i
- STC dual narrowband filter
Images:
- 650x 60s
- ISO 3200
Processing:
- remove green noise
- background extraction
- photometric colour calibration
- BluXTerminator
- NoiseXTerminator (0.4)
- star removal
- GHST
- saturation, blending and final adjustments in Photoshop
We shoot this image over two nights to reveal the faint structures of the veil nebula complex.
Shot with a 135mm lens and a Fuji X-T5.
We finally got two clear nights and although the moon was really bright, this target came out quite well due to the narrowband filter.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm f2.0
- Fuji X-T5
- Star Adventurer 2i
- Duo narrowband filter
Images:
- 466 x 60s lights
- ISO 3200
- @f2.8
Editing:
- Stacking with drizzle in Siril
- Background removal in GraXpert
- photometric color calibration in Siril
- BlurXTerminator
- 0.3 denoising with BlurXTerminator
- Star removal
- Stretching in Siril with GHST
- final composing in Photoshop (saturation, contrast, blending with stars)
Full resolution and more details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/198606/deep_sky/ngc-6974/veil-nebula-complex/by-maxi_franzi
I found this design and it fitted my need perfectly. It is a mount for a very popular camera lens used in astrophotography. It not only functions as a weight relief for the camera but also allows to rotate the field of view. Moreover it is possible to focus the lens with the installation of a stepper motor, which will be the next step.
The single parts are screwed together with the help of threaded heat inserts. Just to make sure they are also glued together with epoxy, as the mount really needs to hold up. The screws are locked with Loctite.
Edit: Link to the mount (not my design): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6099113
We got a lucky shot of Andromeda with a meteor crossing our view.
Apparently we shot a satellite flare next to Andromeda.
Images:
- Samyang 135mm @2.8
- Fuji X-T5
- Star Adventurer 2i
- 465 x 30s
- ISO 200
Processing:
- stacking, stretching, background extraction and star separation in Siril
- final composition in Photoshop
Although the seeing was not great we managed to get our first shot of the region around Sadr.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm
- Fuji X-T5
- Star Adventurer 2i
- STC Clip In filter (multi narrowband)
Images:
- 296x 30s
- ISO 800
- f2.0
Editing:
- stacking and stretching in Siril
- BXT
- gradient removal and denoise in Graxpert
- final editing in PS
Full resolution and more infos: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/192523/deep_sky/crescent-nebula/NGC/6888/diffuse-nebula/by-maxi_franzi
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm
- Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
- Star Adventurer 2i
- STC Clip In Filter
Images:
- 318 x 30s
- ISO 800
- f2.0
Editing:
- Siril for stacking and stretching
- Graxpert Background removal & denoise
- BXT
- Photoshop for final editing
Full resolution and more info: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/192387/deep_sky/omega-or-swan-nebula/M/17/diffuse-nebula/by-maxi_franzi
In March, the European Commission, the EU's executive arm, opened a probe into Apple, under the new Digital Markets Act legislation.
According to a British report, Apple is to be the first tech company to be penalized for misconduct when opening the App Store.
Whirlpool galaxy shot at 135mm.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm f2.0
- Fuji X-T5
Images:
- 723 x 60s
- ISO 400
Full resolution: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/188842/deep_sky/whirlpool-galaxy/M/51/galaxy/by-maxi_franzi
Wide field shot of the virgo cluster.
Equipment:
- Samyang 135mm
- Fuji X-T5
- Star Adventurer 2i
Images:
- 387 x 30s
- ISO 400
- f2.0
Full resolution and more info: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/188443/deep_sky/markarian-chain/galaxy/by-maxi_franzi
Hope this low effort post is accepted, I just wanted to share my first image when I started.
There was no telescope or tracker used, just a smartphone leaned against my wallet.
Images:
- ~400 x 1s
- ISO 3200
Editing:
- stacking/ stretching in Siril
- GraXpert for gradient and denoising
- BlurXTerminator for deconvolution
- Starnett++ to edit the barely visible nebula a bit better
- final editing in Photoshop