techsupport

I'm not sure when this actually started, but it's been mildly annoying. I'm not able to find any results online about what causes it, or how to fix it.

In the case of the screenshot, it appears when I click the "Health" tab of Wintoys. This error also sometimes shows up when opening the Settings app, and every time I launch Forza Horizon 5. The error always shows 3 times, one after another, then as far as I can tell nothing else happens.

From my research it has something to do with updating, but I'm not sure why it tries to load it in Horizon 5.

Steps I've taken (not in this specific order)

• Tried every built in file system/windows error checker (found no errors)

• Tried copying over an "older" version of the DLL from a previous update stack (required SYSTEM permissions, so didn't press further)

• Tried repairing using Windows Installation Media ("couldn't repair")

• Tried updating windows (no luck)

I'm trying here because I'm hoping maybe there are some helpful anecdotes that might be able to fix it! I am using a Ryzen 7 5800X, just in case this is caused by an incompatibility that I don't know about. I can provide more specs/information if needed :)

Edit: reformatted the steps I took, since it looks like it turned into a big wall of text (at least on Sync)

Edit 2: added the edit text 🤫

I got a bunch of DVDs my local library was getting rid of and there are a few very obscure ones that I would like to archive. However I am unsure how to get the data from the DVD into a shareable format what’s the easiest way to do this? Thanks!

I use Windows 10 22H2 on desktop with an Orico Bluetooth dongle. A few days ago I tested a Baseus Bluetooth dongle for my brother, ever since then, these services start having issues. I tried borrowing it back but the same thing still happens. I uninstalled both dongles drivers and reinstall only the Orico one but that didn't fix anything. I even tried changing the value in regedit to automatic but the services don't start on their own and stop after a while. Blue Support Service even straight up Disabled even though the value in regedit doesn't change Windows Troubleshoot says that it's fixed but it didn't do anything. I've tried updating Windows but I've getting error for months.

I even bought another dongle from a different brand and the problem still there. Is there a way to fix this? I have 2TB of data in the C drive and have no way to back it up so I don't want to reinstall Window.

So I have a fresh Windows 11 install on my PC; I did it to attempt to fix another issue I was having, but it turns out that was due to faulty RAM. Since I’ve been on the fresh install though, I've been encountering hard crashes that I can’t diagnose.

I’ve installed drivers (Chipset, CPU, GPU)

Updated my SSD firmware (though not on my boot drive or for my hard drives)

Updated BIOS

Reset CMOS

Have my GPU running stock and very well-cooled

I do have XMP enabled, as well as PBO on my 5900X. There was no issue with these for the year+ I was on my old Windows 11 install, or on Windows 10 before that, and I’d really prefer to leave these on since I game on this computer.

I leave my computer running with the monitors off most of the time, since it also functions as a Plex server. Recently I’ve been leaving the screens on, and caught a DPC_Watchdog_Violation blue screen which had evidently hard-crashed once it reached 100%. A post from Tom’s Hardware recommended going into Control Panel to install “Standard SATA AHCI Controller” for my SSDs, which I did, but I’m still getting the hard crashing.

I’m at a bit of a loss here; the only real common factor is that my displays are turned off when the hard crashes occur. I left them on all day yesterday with no issue, turned them off through the night, turn them back on the today, still with no issue, and then had a hard crash this afternoon during the 1 hour period I had them switched off. Also, this issue has never occurred while I’ve been using my PC, and it seems to happen at random intervals.

I’ve had issues with hard crashes in the past related to GPU temps and messing with the GPU voltage, or playing with CPU voltage, but never something like this. This didn’t happen while I was using my PC like this on the previous Windows install.

EDIT: Did 2 runs with memtest (all tests selected) and it passed both times. Also ran OCCT with the more demanding workload, and again no crashes

(I know Linux is better than Windows, there's a better time and place for that talk)

SPECS: OS: Windows 10 Pro N Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X GPU: NVidia GeForce RTX 4060 Ti RAM: 4x HyperX Fury DDR4 8GB sticks (two rated for one clock speed, the other two rated for another. As I understand it the faster sticks will just run at the speed of the lower two, and it deffo ain't causing issues cause I've tested games with just one pair or the other. Both gave me crashes)

Minidump file: https://www.mediafire.com/file/g34xykxagp29246/050524-8937-01.dmp/file

Simply put, built a custom Windows machine and it gives me BSODs on many more recent games. Deep Rock Galactic, crashes within seconds to minutes of actual gameplay (not including the hub). Remnant: From the Ashes, crashes within minutes on the overworld. Starfield, crashes within minutes to two hours. Blood West, crashes within five minutes of gameplay. Helldivers 2 works fine ingame, but once I quit the game it blue screens within seconds of returning to the desktop.

I've reinstalled drivers. I've disabled sound drivers. I've popped the computer open and reseated everything at least two or three times so far. RAM was tested using MemTest86, no issues at all. CPU temps tend not to exceed anything higher than the 70-75 range ingame (hot, but my processor is rated for up to 90 Celsius). I've reapplied thermal paste four times. I'm on my third install of Windows so far, with this being the Pro N version rather than the Pro version I tried the first two installs. I've had a bit of a go at googling the highlighted files in the Minidump file, but at this point I'm all but giving up. If the Internet can't fix this shit, I'll just sell the components or machine at a loss and stick with an older gaming laptop.

Youtube takeout has given me empty null files.. Please help!

I bought a new external monitor recently and have had the issue of an intermittent display signal

Disabling the monitor in device manager fixes the issue and the monitor works fine when disabled so it's highly likely its some weird software issue but I'd like to find a proper fix for it

I am able to get it to have constant display signal by chance sometimes without disabling the display in device manager but turning off the external display brings back the issue when I turn it back on and it reconnects

OS: Windows 11

Display: Lenovo G27QC-30 with Lenovo's drivers installed *have tried with Microsoft drivers and run into the same issue

Have already tried uninstalling and reinstalling monitor on device manager and reinstalling drivers and that hasn't fixed the issue

Also have already tried using display driver uninstaller to clean install graphics drivers

Edit:

the events tab in windows device manager for the monitor properties does show this error sometimes:

Device not started (monitor)

Device DISPLAY\LEN66F4\5&3287afbc&1&UID4352 had a problem starting.

Driver Name: oem64.inf Class Guid: {4d36e96e-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} Service: monitor Lower Filters: Upper Filters: Problem: 0x0 Problem Status: 0xC00000E5

!

Edit 2:

The monitor will work fine once if i restart my laptop but disabling and re=enabling in device manager causes the problem

Hi all!

I have an RX 7900 xtx AMD graphics card and by default it is enabled. In windows it is easy enough to disable through the adrenaline software but there is no such thing on Linux.

So far I've tried with both corectrl (1.3.11) and lact (0.5.4) and with lact i have been able to edit the fan curve but that only takes effect after the threshold of the zero rpm, which is annoying.

If it's of any help, my model is the sapphire vapor-X.

Thanks in advanced!!

The only one I've found is this one, but it doesn't work. It only triggers if I open the keyword interface and save it after every page load. I don't know enough to fix it.

I would occasionally like to use (wired) headphones, but 90% of the time I am fine with just hearing the audio that comes out of the crappy monitor speakers. If I plug the 3.5mm cable into the monitor's headphone jack (even without headphones attached), then no audio will come out of the speaker anymore.

It is really cumbersome to plug and unplug the cable from the monitor, because I have to pull my desk away from the wall and bend upside down to even be able to see the port where I am supposed to plug it in.

Is there some simple solution to this problem, or am I just stuck using one or the other? I have a small desk and don't really have room for external speakers.

I have a laptop with both a dGPU and iGPU. when gaming i see the nvidia dGPU in use but the Activity Monitor remains "grey". If i open the app i see it lists the game is using the dGPU. At some point the Activity Monitor will switch from grey to colored to properly indicate that the dGPU is in use.

Later, after I close the game the Activity Monitor will remain lit up, even though it's correctly showing no programs using the dGPU.

Should i just accept that this app is pretty awful?

At work I have a Windows PC. I don't have much personal experience with Windows which is why I am asking.

I want to remap the caps lock key to function as a control key. Ideally, on a per-user basis as sometimes other people use the workstation and I don't want to confuse them.

• Was able to install Auto Hot Key. A test script worked. However I couldn't find working instructions about how to do this specific remapping. Example scripts I found seem to have some conflict between v1 and v2 of AH.

• I don't have admin access however I could probably ask for something, but it would have to work immediately without a lot of fooling around. I will not be granted admin access to try a bunch of things til I find something that works.

What's the best way?

I recently encountered an error with my router that required a factory reset in order to fix. I figured since I was already resetting everything, I'd might as well reorganize my network. I switched from 192 to 10 based IPs. I got all my devices configured and everything connects to the internet fine, no hiccups anywhere, except when I try to access my Windows network shares using any device on the network. They worked prior to the reconfiguration, but I also did updates when rebooting the machines, so I don't know what the problem is. The errors I get are 0x80004005 (Unspecified error) when attempting to access \\10.0.1.{deviceIP} and 0x80070035 (The network path was not found.) when attempting to access \\{deviceName}. I've disabled all my firewalls, I've tried the registry changes, reconfiguring services, reconfiguring and even resetting network settings (including NetBIOS), and I'm out of ideas as to what the issue could be. The device shows up under Network on other devices, but attempting to access it hangs for a minute or two and then gives 0x80070035. FWIW, my network is configured to have 10.0.0.x be infrastructure (router and DNS), 10.0.1.x be personal devices (PCs, laptops, phones, anything I own, etc.), and 10.0.2.x is DHCP for visiting/guest devices or anything I can't configure myself.

Any help is appreciated.

im trying to wrap up a minor process (small dir tree of crap) into a zip file for use by others, but microsoft has decided zips shouldnt include empty folders? wtf?

has it always been this way?

Sorry for the title, didn’t know how to succinctly describe it. Here goes.

I have my gmail set up in my iOS device using the default app. Whenever a new email comes in, the number of new emails in the inbox would appear very briefly appear as 2, instead of 1.

After maybe a second or less, that number goes to 1, which is the correct number. It’s usually very quick so I don’t have a recording.

Has anyone encountered this? Anyone knows why it happens?

Thanks!

No SMART warnings, no hitches in performance, no discernable vibration when the clicks are happening. I did just move the drives into an actual case from a Sabrent USB enclosure, I'm wondering if these sounds are normal and they were just muffled before. They are directly attached to a metal case now, and these clicks are audible in the next room over if it's quiet.

I have an old mac with a dying hfs hdd with failing SMART. I copied 2tb of data on an exfat drive but windows only sees only 3 directories and 80gb. Where's my other stuff? Now after I did that long copy session that lasted a whole day, the disk died from stress and the mac doesn't boot anymore. Even if it boots, i don't think the disk can last another full copy session...

Testdisk can show the data, there's a way to tell windows that the files are there?

I just got this Mac from my grandma because she said it wasn't working. It boots and lets me go into recovery mode but crashes in a similar way whenever a loading bar starts. I've tried booting every different way and cleared nvram. I didn't see any clearly visible damage on the logic board, and I'm willing to try any ideas as long as I can keep the price of fixing this under $100.

I leave my computer running for long stretches because it also acts as a plex server. I turned my monitor on last night to open steam, and the window didn’t render in; I didn’t think much of it, but before I could restart my PC, I got a “memory management” BSOD. I turned off XMP, as well as taking out each RAM stick, but I continued to get BSODs. Either “memory management” or “critical process error”. Some other things I’ve attempted:

I can’t reset the PC; when I try, I’m told “there was a problem resetting your PC”.

I can’t use a system restore point; that also fails.

When I open the terminal and run sfc /scannow it finds and fixes corrupt system files every single time (I’ve attempted 3 times now), but I still get a “critical process error” BSOD.

I attempted running

DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth before “sfc” but this got an error 87 and didn’t work.

When I turn on the PC, my lights for DRAM and VGA stay lit up for maybe 5-10 seconds, but turn off while I’m in BIOS or the windows startup repair screen (and my monitor is plugged into the graphics card; my CPU can’t do display out).

I’m at a bit of a loss here. My next guess would be to attempt to reinstall windows, but I don’t have another windows PC handy to create bootable media, so I’m hoping I have a thumb drive laying around with an ISO on it, or I’ll need to wait to get one from a friend.

Also, in the event that reinstalling windows is the fix, should I disconnect the drives holding my plex media beforehand? Wouldn’t want to risk them getting wiped

An update: I have a drive with installation media for Windows 10 laying around, but when I got to the point where it was installing files on my boot drive, partway through it said it didn’t have the required files and cancelled.

THE FIX: Turns out it was an issue with my RAM. I plugged in a thumb drive containing memtest, and after running the test received a ton of errors. Swapping in a new RAM kit seems to have totally resolved my issues. The PC boots up perfectly fine now

I'm trying to rescue data from an old Huawei Ascend P6 with a broken screen, is there a way to get access to the data and clone it, without screen interaction?

My partner and I both have digital cameras. Hers is a Canon EOS Rebel-T5, and mine is an Olympus Tough TG-6. Both cameras will create subdirectories within the /DCIM/ folder, formatted as 10*CANON or 10*OLYMP. We've shared SD cards on occasion, and neither camera has had any issues with just creating a new directory to match the current camera; e.g., one SD has /DCIM/100CANON ... /DCIM/101OLYMP, etc.

There is a highly unusual issue going on with one of the cards. It is a 64 GB [pro]master, Code 2145. It is well-used, with probably over 10,000 photos on it from my Olympus (that are backed up), but there is still plenty of room for pictures. When using this card in particular in her Canon, we have noticed that it writes photos without error, but retrieving and reading the photos on the display is terribly laggy and the camera expends a lot of energy "thinking" with the red indicator light. However, with patience, we are able to view any photos that are produced with this camera. The "photo#/total" display at top (e.g. 4/100; 5/8979) is really screwy and the second number changes often, perhaps as it reads from different directories.

ISSUE:

When I load this SD into my computer, I am only able to recognize Olympus subdirectories. There is no evidence of a Canon writing anything onto this disk, not even any of the other data directories it will normally create outside of /DCIM/. Entering the SD through CLI and using commands like /ls -a prove fruitless. Where on earth are these photos? What other options do I have in trying to attain these images?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/14314812

> https://www.cfr.org/

I was distrohopping because I was getting sick of windows 10 and installed pop os on my secondary SSD and I started getting audio crackling issues. Then I realized even back on the Windows 10 SSD I had the same audio crackling issue. I formatted Pop OS to Bazzite and it persists. Formatted the Windows 10 SSD to Windows 11 and it persists. Now I have permanent audio crackling issues whenever I use the speakers on my monitor (headphones are fine). I've tried everything found online: changing the affinity in audiodg.exe one by one, changing the hz on the speakers, uninstalled sound drivers from device manager, tried using EasyEffects on the linux OSes. nothing helps other than restarting my pc and enjoying crackling free audio for about 10 minutes before it starts again :(

Other people had a similar issue on PopOS and fixed it by changing the kernel they had installed but I tried that and it didnt help and iirc bazzite has a more updated kernel than popOS and that didn't help either

This is my hardware:

!

I got a new Mobo. Windows installer doesn't see the nvme drive. For some reason the bios has a million settings and are all alien to me.

I took a lot of photos of all the settings, so many unknown entries

The motherboard is from an unknown Chinese OEM and it's using a laptop core i7 but in a itx form factor. I have no idea of the brand, really. The box just says "motherboard" and there's no silkscreen on the PCB (it was very fun guessing which pins were for the front panel). No user manual was included. The bios it says "version: default string"

I hate when OEMs lock down bios settings but here is the opposite, they enabled everything

Submitting from a lemmy.world account to a mander.xyz community.

I've tried it multiple times, and this submission to !techsupport@lemmy.world worked without issue.

There are some youtube channels where I only want to see updates to specific playlists. Like the English playlist from the CCC, or only Yahtzee videos from second wind, etc.

What is the best way to managed playlists and see the new videos without subscribing to a whole noisy channel?

FreeTube as a open issue for this idea: https://github.com/FreeTubeApp/FreeTube/issues/312

Title. I dual-boot Windows and Linux. I always saw people making "WINDOWS DELETED MY LINUX BOOTLOADER OMGOMG" posts and it had never happened to me. Now, the opposite has happened. I switched from EndeavourOS to OpenSUSE and now my windows install is no longer selectable on boot.

I keep Windows in a separate drive entirely, so instead of using grub, I use the EFI's boot-select menu thingamafuck (look I don't know jargon okay?) to choose Windows when I need it.

Well today it's not there. Only the Linux entries show up. The Windows partition itself seems to be in good order, like, I can access it from within Linux no problem.

But yeah it doesn't show up on my EFI selector thingie. I imagine I could get the EFI Shell going, but I have no idea how to use THAT either.

This is the same issue as this and this.

Does anyone have a solution that allows me to use the full stereo? (not just the half stereo that AliCheese mentioned)

I have had this issue before, but have not found a fix that allows me to use stereo.

Things I have tried:

• Unplugging it and plugging it back in again
• Using other audio ports
• Restarting computer
• Disabling all sound effects in sound properties and Realtek Audio Manager
• Uninstalling Realtek Audio Manager

I need a specific build of Office 2019 to fix a conflict with another piece of software. That vendor is pointing the finger at Microsoft, and of course, MS is pointing the finger back at them. What I know for certain is that Version 2402 (Build 17328.20184) is the most recent working version. What I don't know is where to find that installer. I installed a much earlier build and tried to update it manually from the MS Update Catalog but the updates would not install, and that version has a completely different bug that makes it unable to print from Outlook.

Hello everyone, is there any cable that I can buy that is female usb c to male usb c? I have a steam deck dock and would like to be able to also plug my laptop in to it by use of a usb c extension cable that can carry video. Does such a thing exist?

I know that with the recent changes to the Twitter APIs it is extremely possible that if this was possible, it is no longer possible, or unlikely, but still as I recall with the Reddit API changes the third-party apps were going to stop working and although I don't use Reddit, I have seen that many Reddit apps still update and here on Lemmy there are those communities that are a mirror, although I guess they are an RSS.

Also, I want to clarify that I know I don't need a Mastodon account to follow an account there, but I wanted to explain it in a way that was easier to understand.

Hi, the issue I’m having is pretty straightforward and I don’t want to bore you:

I have a Mac and a Win11 PC on the same private network. I have a folder on Win11 that I want to share with Mac, and the other way around.

I’ve set up a new local user on the Win11 machine with accesso to that folder only (for security reasons). It has a user and a password, and when I try to connect to a new “server” on MacOS (cmd+k) and I input the folder path, I then log in with that user’s credentials just fine.

The issue is with the Mac folder shared on Win11: I’ve enabled SMB file sharing on the Mac and given the permissions on that folder to a “sharing only” account I’ve created locally. When on Win11 I try to connect to the Mac (I have to input the Mac’s IP, using “smb://…” doesn’t work), it asks for the credentials and it always says the “network password” is incorrect. The weird thing is, if I input the main MacOS account’s credentials I read the folder just fine (and everything else if course).

What am I doing wrong?

My neighbor was having issues with his PC freezing up during games, saying his CPU fan specifically) would ramp up. He then bought new parts and asked me to build him a new PC to replace it which I did (we exchange handiwork). Now he's wanting to give his old parts to a friend of his who had an even older PC. So I've got another build which was mostly parts from his old one with the exception of a new power supply and graphics card.

At first, 3/4 of the time I wouldn't get any video. I noticed he had two different sets of memory so I stress tested each set individually and in each of the DIMM slots. It all tested fine and I was getting video more consistently when only using a single set. I was using stress to test both the CPU and memory and never came across any freezing or other issues.

I've tried going into BIOS to see if any settings in there were causing issues with the mixed memory but regardless of the configuration or using the on-board graphics, I get no video in BIOS.

Now, regardless of configuration, I'm getting no video in BIOS or an OS 100% of the time.

CPU: i7-9700F Motherboard: ASRock B364 Pro4 GPU: RTX 3070 Memory: 2x 16GB DDR4-3200 (CMW32GX4M2E3200C16) + 2x 8GB DDR4-3000 (CMW16X4M2C3000C15)

Print-to-PDF is locked down. There's a print option as part of the software, but it slaps my student email diagonally across every single page, which makes reading it kind of obnoxious.

I don't intend to distribute (which I'm assuming is why it's locked up so tight), but needing to log in and navigate to the text is getting cumbersome, so I'm hoping to just save a chapter at a time to my phone and whip that out to tackle my reading assignments.

Also hoping to preserve images, since a lot of the info is charts and such, so PDF seems like the best target, but open to any ideas.

...I suppose I could just suck it up and deal with their annoying software, but at this point I hate to admit defeat lol.

The folders are accessible on every other device and SMB is enabled on the host machine. I'm trying to access hundreds of gigabytes of game roms via Retroarch when I'm out of the country so I'd appreciate an easier method if one exists, but I've ran through every troubleshooting guide I can find online, but the share folders still don't exist according to my phone. I've also tried 5 or 6 different file manager apps, but they all say the same thing

If someone sees this in the distant future, I'm still looking for a solution so please reach out.

Hello everyone! I encountered a weird bug yesterday that I wanted to run by you guys to (hopefully) find a solution. I recorded a short (10s) video on my pixel 8. Then I sent it to my wife's iPhone via signal. She then tried to send it to her family via imessage and upload it to social media, but was unable to do anything with it besides watch it. The cheap solution ended up being sending the video over MMS, but as you know that compresses the video to JPEG hell. Have any of you ran into this bug and/or have solutions/workarounds that don't completely destroy the quality like MMS?

Edit 1: bonus points for solutions which check the WAF box!

The power supply on my XPS 8930 gave up the ghost, so I replaced it with a Corsair CX750M (probably not relevant).

While I was at it, I also replaced the case with a Thermaltake CTE T500 (probably relevant).

I connected the power switch to pins 6 and 8 on the front panel connector, following the diagram at XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade.

Things work as expected: I can power the computer on and off with the power button, all cool.

BUT: Every time the computer boots, I get an error message from SupportAssist during POST: "[...] Alert! Power Button Cable failure". I click Continue, and everything is peachy.

Does anyone know how I can get rid of this message? Did the power button in the original case know some secret handshake that the new one doesn't?

At this point, I would be OK with disabling the SupportAssist self check altogether. I don't need any SupportAssistance to know that the machine is getting a little cranky.

Context: I need to have installed a a program called Smowl, which is a closed-source app that records EVERYTHING to make sure you don't do weird stuff while doing an online exam. To avoid installing such monstrosity on my laptop, and since virtualbox is probably banned, I wanted to use a persistent bootable device to have the program installed and know that everything works well in a few days.

Tails and booting software: I tried with Tails, but the software doesn't work there because it's too private. I also tried using other tools other than ImageWriter or dd to make other distros persistent, but if I use Unetbootin the distro doesn't get recognized when booting the laptop, and I the other tool that I found to have similar powers is mkusb, but it's no longer maintained and it cannot be installed on Arch (there's a compiling issue).

MX Linux: I also tried MX Linux, but I don't know how to make it persistent in the first place because I followed all the steps but I don't get it to show me the last session to boot to or the "text menu" option of this guide. I tried this several times, with two pen drives (8GiB both), but I got no luck, even when using MX Linux live USB tool to make the other pen drive bootable. What am I missing?

Hey, I saw the post last week about a quest for a MMORPG mouse and it inspired me to ask for help as well. My needs are similar but not exactly the same from the OP last week:

1. Gaming MMORPGs and FPS (like everyone I guess)
2. I want specific 3 or 4 buttons additional to the front buttons, placed on the sides
3. Under 100g
4. Length up to 127mm (small hands)
5. No thumb rest is probably best.

It doesn't seem that we have many new mouse models with those requirements which is a bummer. I identified some ambidextrous mouses distributing the buttons which I think I could perhaps make it work but not sure. Here are the ones that I found. PLEASE COMMENT IF I SHOULD REMOVE ONE OF THOSE FROM MY LIST OF CONTENDERS AND WHAT WOULD YOU PICK:

a. Razer Viper Ultimate -- disqualified because is Razer

b. Logitech G PRO -- 60 hours battery may not be enough for today standard

c. Pulsar X2A

d. Razer Viper 8khz -- disqualified because is Razer

e. Alienware Tri-Mode -- side buttons can't be disabled if desired

f. MMOPRO -- mouse sensor not optimal

g. Machenike L8 Pro -- not sure if it has a third button on the sides

h. Edifier Hecate G4M Pro

i. Kone XP Air -- looks to be what I'm looking -- at 126mm it may be too large for short hands (in another context this sentence would be quite odd)

j. Pwnage -- having to adopt a criteria this one uses 3370 sensor and the newest mouses are using the 3395 sensor. So, keeping the mouses with 3389 and 3395 sensor in this list. It also features only 38mm of height and it may not be ergonomic to use the buttons on the right side

k. Ducky Feather -- this has option to choose between Kailh 8.0, Huano Blue and 60M Switches, however they doesn't seem swapable and given that it is not wireless it may be better to cut off

l. Lenovo Legion M7 -- at 127mm it may be too large for small hands (in another context this sentence would be quite odd)

m. Keychron M6

n. Glorious Model l 2 -- probably the winner. Although, I will need to find a way to either accept the thumb rest or get rid of it

Final considerations, I don't care if is wired or not. I see myself almost all the time with the mouse wired. Although would be nice to be USB C featured for a paracord cable.

I need most help to understand those techinical differences that I'm not very familiar.

Thank you for the inputs

EDIT: I gave up. The mouse that I'm looking was not created yet. I decided to go with a light regular 2 side buttons mouse.

So, i use linux, i don't have any windows install on my disk, but someone wants me to install windows on their HDD, so, if i plug said HDD on one of my sata ports and try to install windows 10 on it, will it mess with my linux boot? if yes, is there a way to prevent that without physically disconnecting my main drive? (my main is an nvme ssd, that's why I'd rather not remove it, already suffered enough trying to screw that in ther

Edit: Fortunally i got to convince the person to bring their whole PC, so now i won't have to deal with this anymore! Thank you very much for all the answers everyone