"When you're listening to music and you turn up the volume using the knob on your mechanical keyboard"

"DEEJAY"

Due to some unique circumstances I am currently looking for a keyboard or barebones kit that offers a non-wireless board that is also hotswap.

It seems though, that most wired only boards tend to also be solder boards, and I don't have the equipment (or patience) to work with that.

Do you know if there's any boards out there that offer this sort of combo?

I want to try split keyboard, but don't know how to choose. I can build it myself. So I'd rather want a cheap one.

Mom, can we have battleship?

We have battleship at home.

The battleship at home...

Okay, so technically this battleship is still in drydock, but I soldered 117 keys/buttons. I get to put the keycaps on early if I want!

Join our group now: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/witching-hour

Here are Jelly Key’s Halloween keycaps, available in a 2-day Mini Groupbuy (closing Nov 1st) with delivery after 40 working days. Each keycap is hand-molded with multiple color layers, not 3D printed, and photos show the actual products. We offer a one-on-one replacement for any artisan errors, plus free shipping on orders of 6 keycaps. Note: the Groupbuy may close early if the order limit is reached. Prices start at $45

Hurry up! Wishing you all a spine-chilling and fun-filled Halloween night!

I have an FC660C which I love, and really has been my endgame board. I have literally not bought another keyboard since picking this up however many years ago. (Well, technically not true, but the only thing I bought after that was an FC980C to use at work, and that was because I wanted something as nice as the 660C to use while I was there.)

However, it hasn't been thoroughly cleaned in all the time I've owned it. I've taken most of the caps off and cleaned under them a couple times, and I've opened the bottom of the case once or twice, but I haven't done a full disassembly, haven't even considered lube, haven't pulled caps for the stabilizer keys, etc.

Some things are getting a little squeaky, and I really want to give it a deep clean. (and maybe a lube)

My fears are: Screwing up the stabilizers (I have fully disassembled a couple cherry MX boards before, but I'm not clear how different or more delicate this is likely to be, and it's been awhile), and screwing up/losing all (or any of) those little springs and the domes.

I've checked out a few videos over the years, but am still just a little nervous about doing it.

Can anyone who has done it convince me it's not that bad, or warn me away from trying? 😁

Bonus question: If I end up in there anyway, any recommended extra steps to take?

I mentioned in a previous post that I made a few design changes to the Qazimodo case and wanted to highlight those changes.

New vs old design photos here.

• Removed the visible seam between the top and bottom of the case. Now the bottom is inserted into the top. This helps a ton with alignment which was a bit of an issue with the first iteration and it helps smooth out the curve.
• USB port improvements. The first USB port was pretty small and didn’t work with some cables. It also didn’t flow smoothly with the curve.
• Doubled the number of bottom screws to help prevent pinging and make things more sturdy.

[GROUP-BUY OPEN] Dream Journey series – Harvest artisan keycaps

Hi @everyone . Only $49 for this wonderful keycap! The group buy will close on October 31, but we often close early to avoid exceeding our handmade production capacity. Remember, our group buys only happen once, so don’t miss out.

– Each keycap, no matter the size, comes in a handcrafted wooden box, and art toys ship in a large wooden box.

– We offer “random 6 keycaps” and “random 2 keycaps” options, like mystery boxes. With the random 6 option, you’ll get a $15 discount and free shipping.

– Art toy X32 & X77: Choose between a keycap-style base for giant switches or a flat base for display. Both versions feature more realistic wheels than standard keycaps. Let us know if you prefer the flat base; otherwise, it defaults to keycap-style.

– Our keycaps are handmade with resin casting and multi-layer coloring, not 3D printed.

– We offer one-on-one replacements for defects caused by our team. Contact us for help.

Join groupbuy now: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/dream-journey-series-harvest--

Just opened my board with Gateron yellows pre lubed. The blue ones aren't lubed. I found similar marks all over the keyboard. Can these marks be dangerous and how do I deal with them?

They seem to be under the transparent plastic sheet on which the switches are mounted. I think it has foam underneath.

Hi there,

I plan on building me a 40% for the first time (already have an ergodash but it's soldered and wanted to try hotswap and a different format).

I've ordered plate, case, pcb and switches on ali epxress. (will reuse my current key caps for now)

The description of each item doesn't say if it comes with some hardware. (it just says 2u stab for the space key)

If it's not included, where can I find the correct hardware. I am not sure what length for the screws and stadoffs do I need. I would appreciate if anybody with such experience could help me a bit with that.

Thank you in advance.

I ended up picking up a bluetooth mechanical keyboard around 7 years ago. I've just dug it up again and I've realised that the bottom left "Ctrl" key is not working. What are my options for fixing it? I can easily take off the key caps and access the switches, but is there anything that can be done? Is there any chance reseating the switch will fix it?Thanks

Where I'm At

Basically, I know just the very basics. I've thought about building a keyboard many times and I have the technical means/knowhow to do such. I know there are very personal things like keystroke length, pressure, etc. that goes into it but I don't have enough experience typing on keyboards that aren't garbage to really know what I want. Advice on figuring that out would be really helpful.

---

As far as things that I know that I need:

• Backlighting. The lighting in my space is not great and it really helps (for me, since I don't always have hands on the keyboard) to be able to quickly identify a key. I know this might deduct from the budget a lot, but I'm willing to absorb it because I consider this a must-have. Static color is fine, I don't need full programmable RGB

• 100% keyboard. I have the space and use all the keys for games, macros, etc. 6 years ago I got a giant grin on my face when I finally used the scroll lock key for what it's designed for.

• Quietness is more important than feel for me. As much as I'd love one of those crazy Model Ms that have the servos for a replica perfect typing feel, I often am on voice chat while doing things so that's a no go.

• I can't do the split ergo thing, as cool as it seems. My brain has been trained to touch type poorly, and there's no way I'm gonna be able to get away from that.

---

Budget

If this is possible for $200 or less, that would be great. If someone knows of something prebuilt, or a possible combination of parts that could fit within this budget I'd be very grateful. I can go a little over by piecemealing parts, but sooner rather than later would really be preferred. I'm tired of having either cheap or half broken keyboards.

Thanks

Has anybody attempted to fix an USB-C connector?

The raffle form for this week is open now: https://www.jellykey.com/raffle

Some information:

• Character Sculptures Collection: Cat Knights, Night Hunter, Magician Klown, Octopian (10 keycaps per sculpture)

• Colorway: Vio Pink

• Price: $100

• Shipping fee: $12 per keycap (free shipping if you live in Vietnam)

• Keycap Compatibility: MX stem & meticulously crafted with multiple layers

• Shipping Commences: Starting from 10/25/24 (one month after the raffle conclusion)

Rule:

• Only one entry.

• You will be banned if you don't pay the invoice when you win.

Raffle:

• This form will open in 24 hours (closed on 09/25/24 at 11 PM GMT+7).

• The invoice will start after the form has closed (30-90 mins).

Payment:

• We only accept PAYPAL with raffle sales.

• Payment will be open 24 hours before closing. Unpaid invoices will be cancelled & keycaps will be raffled again.

Co-workers Ripjaws keyboard died and since its not hotswap it cant be fixed easy.

https://c1.neweggimages.com/ProductImageCompressAll1280/23-828-011-V04.jpg

He is looking for a replacement but is really addicted to the macro keys on the left. Anyone have a non Keychron rec? (I am already sending him all the Keychron keebs that offer similar layouts)

Thanks/Cheers!

Last week I sent this purple Qazimodo prototype to my good friend (chellekeebs on Instagram) and she took these amazing photos of it. Love how it looks with Lilac Dreams.

I was very close to not doing a purple case but I’m so glad I did!

More photos here

As someone who's looking to to get into the hobby, I'm curious to hear if there are any recommendations for budget friendly mechanical keyboards. I had/have a Corsair cherry red mechanical keyboard that I used probably around 10 years ago at this point when I was into gaming, but now I'd be looking for something a bit more refined, and possibly vintage as I quite enjoy using old tech. Any suggestions? I'm in Europe if that matters at all.

Here are Jelly Key’s unique event keycaps! We’re selling them through a Mini Groupbuy, which means it’s only happening for 2 days (closing on the 19th), and they’ll be delivered after 40 working days. All the photos you see are of the actual products. Our keycaps are individually molded and completely hand-cast with multiple layers of color—not 3D printed. Plus, we guarantee a one-on-one replacement for any errors caused by our artisan team.

And remember, we won’t be reopening any groupbuys, so hurry and pick out a fabulous cake or lantern for the Mid-Autumn Festival!

Currently got this one on my work laptop. Model M terminal board with internal converter. The only layout changes I made versus a normal 102-key are that RCtrl is is a Windows key, and the four keys along the right side of the numpad are =, -, +, and the normal Enter.

Yes, it’s mechanical. Choc V1 20g Nocturnal switches, and I use it daily at work typing for a living. 26-key Unibody ʻākohekohe

Montreal Mechanical Keyboard Meetup memorabilia. The silhouette is the Olympic Tower.

Made some design updates based on feedback I received from a couple fellow keyboard designers and I just received the first two prototypes this week. Super happy with how they turned out.

More photos here.

Hi! New to all of this, but I've been following the community for a while and wanted to finally get my hands on a board after having figured out what (I think) I like. Still have some questions concerning multiple-language use case. I read through some of the posts on here but couldn't find a lot so I thought I will just ask...

So far, following one comment, I guess it would be best to go with anANSI layout and learn how to use US International layout, since the (Keychron) Keyboard I currently eyeball is also difficult to get as ISO fully assembled in the color option I want, ordering from Europe. I need this to run on Linux and I guess there's no way around getting into key mapping.

1. I do work with several langues, so I would need at minimum Latin and Cyrillic alphabet, additionally some characters of Nordic, Slavic, Germanic and Romanic languages, so basically a lot of diacritics, but also a few extra characters such as ø, ß, ł. However, from what I read US International might not work with for instance Czech, which is a huge problem for me (š, č, ž, ů etc.). Anyone on here with experience and/or solutions regarding this?

2. For those of you owning and using a Keychron on Linux, is keymapping a no-brainer? (I hope my biggest issue with this will just be using a Chromium-based Browser xD) --> If Keychron isn't advised, any ideas on other Keyboards supporting key mapping, preferably manufactured in and shipped from Europe. (metal body, 80%, wired, media knob, possibly macros, price point less important)

3. Also looking for recommendations on where to buy aesthetically pleasing Latin/Cyrillic Keycaps! Preferably Europe-based Vendors and no sketchy and cheap (possibly toxic) chinese products.

Thanks a lot!

My Keychron Q11 showed up recently and I've been super happy with it. Main reason was that my Noppoo Choc Mini finally lost a switch and I don't have any on hand (nor a soldering iron ...yet) but it turns out I actually really wanted the pair of rotary encoders on this and didn't even realise.

Specifically, I've got it bound to Ctrl-PgUp/PgDown so I can scroll through my tabs with it and close them with a click binding to Ctrl-W and that's working out really well.

Anyone else use the knobs like that? I've got the other one set to volume and the vendor had zoom as a suggestion but I wonder what else people do with these?

----

Bonus newb Q: On the product page they demonstrate binding Ctrl-+ zooming to the encoder via a macro but neither macro13 nor the {KC_LCTL,KC-W} type syntax would let me click "Confirm" when trying to associate it to the knob in Via (eg. it wouldn't let me follow their example). Luckily it was happy with the alternative of LCTL(KC_W) that I stumbled on somewhere but now I wonder how to properly associate a macro to a knob?

Join our groupbuy: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/coral-oasis

In this Groupbuy, we’ve got keycaps in these sizes: 1u, 2u backspace, 2.25u enter/left-shift, 2.75u right-shift, and 6.25u spacebar. You can choose from SA, Droplet, Naked (great for Cherry profile), and art toy.

Because it’s cast as a solid piece, the transparency effect is going to look amazing on a keyboard with LEDs. But that’s not all—you’ll feel like you’re looking into a vibrant coral reef aquarium, full of life, especially under UV light.

The Groupbuy closes on September 12th, but we might close early if we hit our limit. We want to deliver on time with the best quality, so don’t wait; the designs in our Groupbuy are sold only once, and there will be no re-releases.

• Each keycap, no matter the size, comes in a handcrafted wooden box. Every art toy is also shipped in a large wooden box.
• The Art Toy x32 and X77 are only available in one option: 1u with a naked profile, and you can choose from four colors.
• Our keycaps are genuinely handmade using resin casting and multi-layer coloring. These are real, not 3D renders or printed products.
• We also offer a one-on-one replacement if there's a defect caused by our artisan team. Don't hesitate to contact us for help.--

I picked up a Ducky One Mini at a flea market yesterday, and after cleaning it extensively it seems to be working pretty well for the most part. I'm using it for writing and coding, so not having dedicated arrow keys will take some getting used to, but other than that it seems neat enough for the price I paid.

However, the alternative graphic button (on the right side of the space bar) is completely unresponsive. Pressing it just makes no difference at all. I used a tool that maps keyboard presses in Linux (xev), and it showed nothing when Alt Gr was pressed (just like the Fn button), so it seems no signal is being sent from the keyboard to the computer.

It could be that this is due to some setting made by the previous owner, or maybe there's something else going on. Maybe I need to update the firmware. Maybe it's broken. I have no idea.

The back-light behind some of the numerical keys is also disabled or broken, but it doesn't bother me much as I'm not a big fan of back-light anyway.

But if anyone has any suggestions what to try for the alternative graphic key it would be much appreciated! For now I have re-routed right super (Windows button) to be read as Alt Gr, but it's not very convenient when writing Latex and using a lot of curly brackets. :)

Original post here.

I've found a fix for the key 'sticking' issue I posted about a couple of weeks ago.

It turns out that on the problematic switches, the 'south' plastic wall (highlighted in picture) had caved inwards. This was either due to poor QC or, more likely, damage I caused when trying to foolishly force the switches into my PCB.

I believe that when I was inserting the switches into the PCB the pressure applied to the East and West sides of the switch exacerbated the flex and caused the South side of the switch's stem to 'catch' on the problematic wall.

That would explain why the switches didn't malfunction until they were in the PCB and why a problematic switch would be more noticeable on the left half of my keyboard than the right half (I believe that the PCB grid holes are slightly smaller on the left half).

I've taken a few of the troublesome switches, taken a plastic spudger, and applied pressure to 'reverse' the bend and it's solved the issue every time!

I haven't owned a mechanical keyboard in years, but I found this while thrifting the other day. Cleaned it up, everything seems to work fine.

The only thing that irks me is the spacebar. It sort of teeter totters and only works when I press in the center. Are there supposed to be three switches under it?

!picture of keyboard without spacebar

Also, is there any way to swap the alt/windows keys at the hardware/firmware level? I prefer the macOS layout and would like to avoid juggling configuration software on each device I own.

Hello,

My apologies if I use the wrong terminology, I'm pretty new to this. This week I installed Gazzew U4T switches into the Sofle V2 keyboard I put together. I used Cherry MX Blues in it before and had no issues.

Some of my switches, as I press them, feel as if they get 'caught' on the tactile bump. There's a great deal of resistance at the level of travel the bump begins. I either have to apply more pressure or change the angle of the pressure my fingers exerts to 'uncatch' it and depress it.

The odd thing is that it doesn't appear to be an issue with the individual switches but rather the position they sit i.e. I can replace a switch working as expected with a 'catching' switch and the previously working switch now catches and vice versa.

It appears the respective gaps on the PCB are too tight and it 'chokes' the switch.

Has anyone encountered this? Does anyone know of a solution? Would lubing my switches solve the problem?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/18681689

RP2040, KMK, Laser cut and painted Masonite, and DIY dye-sub (I checked by sawing some keycaps in half... it's kinda crappy, but it's real dye-sub) keycaps. "Mid height" Outemu black, "JWK" low profile keycaps from Aliexpress.

Hi there,

I'm a dev and use basic mechanical keyboards (tkl corsair quick fire). For a while now I'm operating in qwerty us layout but I reversed the numbers with the special characters because I use them more often than numbers. Any of you know where I could find this? CherryMX keycaps.

I don't want to go on the more dvoraky dev layouts because I think more than I type during my day.

Thanks a lot ❤️

In the digital age, where everything is just a touch away, the world of gaming has become incredibly diverse and captivating. Yet, amidst the myriad of choices, Tetris still holds a special place in the hearts of many. We at Jelly Key understand this. We grew up with Tetris, and the childhood memories of this classic puzzle game remain vivid. That’s why, with all due respect, Jelly Key has recreated Tetris in the most authentic way possible, from visuals to the overall feel...

In this collection:

• 4 designs
• keycap sizes: 1u / 2.25u / 6.25u
• profiles: Cherry, SA
• price: $49
• payment: PP / CC

Our Groupbuy will close on the 18th of this month, but please remember that we might close it earlier if we reach our production capacity. Every piece is entirely handcrafted and assembled with care, piece by piece. We’ve never reopened a previous Groupbuy, so don’t miss out on this fantastic product!

Many years ago, I was using typing trainer website that had a handful of public domain books available to train on as part of the end-of-course materials. I thought this was really neat, but I ran out of content pretty quickly and lamented the fact that there was nothing else available. Why couldn't you just choose any of the books that were in the public domain? The framework was already there, surely it wouldn't be difficult to implement? I was perplexed by such an obvious oversight and missed opportunity.

Well, today I stumbled upon the exact thing I had wanted to have back then and just wanted to share.

Hi! I'm relatively new to mechanical keyboards and I need some help.

I need a 60% that will allow to toggle between two mode, one for writing and one for cursor movement with arrows (possibly on IJKL).

From what I found most of the 60% use the Fn button for arrows, but you have to keep it pressed, which will not work for me... I need to actually toggle the alternative layout. Some 60% have a "Fn lock" to support this, but it's hard to tell by just looking at their specs...

Do you know any model with a similar feature?

Hi Everyone,

This is HiexaKey. We are glad to meet you here. Today, we will introduce the first custom keyboard of the brand new G series: Hiexa G60.

I am sure everyone has childhood memories, some of which you still feel nostalgic for until today. One of the essential parts of mine is my passion and love for video games, especially handheld console games. However, for some reason, I've never been able to have a handheld game console of my own when I was a child. Now, I can combine it with the keyboard, which is also a way to make up for the regret of my childhood!

Render Gallery

Design

Front design---Combining the classic elements and the double L-shaped bars is a decoration and part of the structure, practical as well as elegant and aesthetic. There are WK, WKL, and HHKB layout options.

Side design---It adopts an upper, middle, and lower splicing method and combines it with geometric protrusions for visual features. The RGB strips are embellishments, and you can adjust the colors and brightness of RGB lighting for different atmospheres. The side of the bottom case shell utilizes cutting techniques to create a three-dimensional visual effect!

Back design---It combines game and handheld game console styles, with multiple CNC parts matching each other to make the overall style more complete!

Structure

• Ball Catch Structure---We have adopted a suitable ball catch for the keyboard case, which can be symmetrically distributed on the shell.

• Quick-release Button---We have added a convenient quick-release button to the bottom case. By pressing it, you can now quickly and easily release the ball catch system with one hand.

• Limit Stopper---It prevents scratches caused by the case's disassembly and assembly and serves as a limit for the keyboard inner.

• Magnetic Connector---It is the same as the Hiexa V series, which can simplify the assembly process.

• Brass Internal Weight---It integrates two batteries(Tri-mode) inside to make the interior flat for a better typing sound. Although the internal cannot be seen after assembly, we still designed patterns to make the overall design more perfect!

New Mounting

The G60 adopts the new spring buffer structure. Through continuous testing, we finally found the appropriate spring data. With the support of a spring, the buffer of FR4, and the silicone socks, we have obtained the spring structure we need.

Typing Sound

• Wired HS PCB
• Tri-mode HS PCB----wired, Bluetooth 5.0, and 2.4G mode.
• Support QMK/VIA
• Support multiple layouts
• Include 4400MHA capacity battery(Tri-mode only)
• Foam----PORON plate foam + IXPE foam + EPDM case foam and PET insulating foam.
• Plate----POM, FR4, ALU

Color Option and Finish

Glitter Spray-coated Case: Sand-blue, Wine Red+milky, Orange-black, Purple-white, Pink-white, Black-colorful, Red-blue, White-dark purple, White-turquoise

Anodized Case: Silver

Note: The Weight of silver is make by alu not brass,due to need to keep the color same as the case.

Specification

• Typing angle: 7°
• Front height: 19.2mm
• Front length and width: 298.6*116.5mm
• Structure
• Support PCB stabilizers

Content List

• CNC Case x 1
• L-shaped bars x 2
• Brass Weight x 1
• Brass Internal Weight x 1
• Plate x 1
• HS PCB x 1
• IXPE Foam x 1
• 3.5mm Poron Foam x 1
• EPDM Foam x 1
• PET Insulation Sheet x 1
• Footpads x 1
• 2200mAh Battery x 2 ( Only for the tri-mode）
• 2.4GHz Receiver x 1
• Silicone pack x 1
• Extra Screws pack x 1
• Carry case X 1

Price

Around USD219

Sale Method

Limited in stock and Group Buy

IC Form

Please fill out the IC form to share your thoughts with us. It means a lot to us. Thanks.

Discord

We welcome you to join our server for faster updates and discussion.

Thank you so much for your time.

Best Regards

HiexaKey

Hello fabulous fellow keeb enthusiasts! I have this really cool custom split ergo keyboard called a Dark Matter, and I think only 10 or so were made. I love typing on it, but I'm getting double inputs and the LEDs on the left side only work intermittently. Do you have any suggestions on how I could try to fix those issues? Do you think I need to resolder both PCBs entirely, just certain key switches, and/or all the LEDs? Reseating its teensy controllers did not fix the issue, for example.

Unfortunately the person who made these is not providing support for them so I'm on my own on this one.

Here's a reddit post I made 5 years ago when I first ran into these issues:

https://old.reddit.com/r/AtomComputer/comments/9rc2ep/leds_and_doubleiinputting/

I'd appreciate any advice you can offer, thanks so much!

Keebtalk post.

Just finished my latest homebuilt board. 3-D printed case, masonite plates, box navy switches, Akko SA-L keycaps.

For this one, instead of manually hand wiring the entire matrix, I designed that part in KiCAD and sent it off to JLCPCB (minimum order quantity also means I have four more of them with no particular need). I still manually wired it to the raspberry pi pico though. There’s also a new and really user-friendly tool called “Pog” for the Python based KMK firmware. That was really nice.