Also bought mine off AliExpress. It was one of the fake pokemon shell models, so that feels a little cheap but looks nice. Otherwise the unit functions perfectly, no scratches on the screen and buttons are responsive.
It's going to be pretty hard to properly clean the button without opening it up since there isn't a good way to get cleaner into them.
Well there are tons of 3d printed stands, as well as the classic nail polish stand. Lots of options out there.
Great video. His content is great, I just don't agree with his use of brasso to clean carts.
Flickering like this usually occurs when the controller and lights are not using the same ground.
More pictures are always useful. Assuming the pins in the connector aren't bent out of shape, your issue sounds more like a problem with the game. A common issue is that some pins need to be reflowed on the rom and ram chips. Here is an example video of what I'm referring to https://youtu.be/Hg21VeFM-_Y
I would make sure to clean the cart and the slot. A quick way for the slot is to load up the cart contacts with ipa and insert it a few times. For the game itself, I'm a fan of using a white pencil easer, followed by ipa.
For the lines, it could be the contrast wheel is dirty. Adding a few drops of ipa and working the wheel could help, though long term deoxit would be better.
Beyond that, more pictures of the board would help.
Built two of these awhile ago. It works very well. https://lemmy.world/post/9910910
There are and they work very well(3ms latency). No mods required . https://shop.insidegadgets.com/product/wireless-gameboy-controller/
I happen to have a board from my FunnyPlaying build so I figured I'd give it a shot. Used enamel wire to make the button contacts and got 3.3v from the cart slot. I also removed the caps as to not power any circuits that didn't need (CPU and RAM were donors to the other board). Power is provided via AA batteries.
Space and simplicity. There is not a lot of room in a GBA so a custom PCB would probably be needed from the start. Also the DMG display PCB is basically trash if the screen dies, which is all you need for this project. The GBA equivalent would need a donor motherboard.
Thanks. I was looking at these carts and thought about hard it would be to make something similar that you could use a old shell with. I recently made a SNES to Bluetooth adapter so the code was pretty similar. I really like projects that recycle parts like this.
Still very much a work in progress but it works reasonably well (about 8ms of lag). I want to ultimately create an easier to install PCB rather than the perfboard I used.
It's possible these don't enter boot mode by default. Try grounding gpio pin 0.
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An update to my previous post. I was able to improive the average lag by disabling the serial monitor, passing a reference of the controller to the polling logic (eliminating the need to loop over the current state and previous state to determine if buttons should be pressed), and adding a 1ms delay between loops (should have realized that the board need some down time between calls). I've added the code since I think 8ms is a perfectly good lag result for a diy project.
Took a badly marginal gba pcb and transplanted the CPU and RAM into this new motherboard. The soldering was a nice challenge but I had an issue with the cart slot. A pin was bent, so had to fix that before games would boot. Very happy with the result. I've uploaded a picture of the back of the shell as well. https://imgur.com/a/opXFA5B
Also in person, the plastic is not cloudy at all. The motherboard is here https://funnyplaying.com/products/gba-custom-upgraded-motherboard-replacement?variant=40990162059325
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/13199828
> Printed using hatchbox wood pla. I had a few issues with standoffs but a little glue fix those right up. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Just waiting on the release of flippy drive to call it complete. > > Links to all the models I used: > > https://www.thingiverse.com/tessa-wolf/designs > https://www.printables.com/model/469283-gamecube-jewel > https://www.printables.com/model/117561-gamecube-power-button > https://www.printables.com/model/280005-gamecube-reset-button > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644517
Printed using hatchbox wood pla. I had a few issues with standoffs but a little glue fix those right up. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Just waiting on the release of flippy drive to call it complete.
Links to all the models I used:
https://www.thingiverse.com/tessa-wolf/designs https://www.printables.com/model/469283-gamecube-jewel https://www.printables.com/model/117561-gamecube-power-button https://www.printables.com/model/280005-gamecube-reset-button https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644517
This was my attempt to create a a SNES to Bluetooth adapter. It works but the average latency was 18.35ms, which I think is too much to be considered a good controller.
This unit was just sold as a parts board. I bought it to use as a donor board but figured I could get it working first (this screen was from a different unit). Turns out someone had opened the power switch to clean it, but somehow a solder blob made it into the switch. That was jamming the power switch. Still a donor board through, the volume slider is pretty rusty.
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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/11912700
> I added some documentation on how I'm automating remote control inputs on the 4k. Examples include a template for an IR transmitter, a python script to parse profile information off the SD card for use in automation, and an example of selecting a custom profile based on its name. Hopefully it can be useful, if only just to give some interesting node-red examples.
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I added some documentation on how I'm automating remote control inputs on the 4k. Examples include a template for an IR transmitter, a python script to parse profile information off the SD card for use in automation, and an example of selecting a custom profile based on its name. Hopefully it can be useful, if only just to give some interesting node-red examples.
My hand slipped while disassembling the system (original goal was to replace shoulder buttons and plastic housing). I had to scrape away points on the board and use some 32 awg enameled wire to recreate the connections. Good news is every fits and is back in working order.
A wifi pico w remote for the gbs-control. Contribute to v1605/gbs-remote development by creating an account on GitHub.
I've made the improvements I listed in my previous post. The GitHub link contains a link to the LCD I used in the project and basic instructions.
This is a small project I'm working on for the gbscontrol. It functions as a remote to change saved profiles via wifi using a Raspberry Pi Pico W. With the addition of filters to the analogue pocket dock, I wanted to be able to quickly change presets without having to launch the web UI. When its ready, it will be fully open sourced.
What's working well:
- Using the webui to configure gbscontrol hostname and adding wifi credentials.
- Loading profiles and scrolling via the joystick and buttons.
- Refreshing profiles via joystick press.
- Help messages when it can't connect to wifi or load options from gbscontrol
What needs improvement:
- More status indicators on the screen. It can appear frozen when it's working.
- Make UI more mobile friendly.
- Clean up the code base, I don't use python very often and it shows.
- 3D printed enclosure, guess I finally have to go beyond tinkercad.
Still not the best at desoldering but these definitely needed to be replaced.
FlippyDrive is an upcoming GameCube ode that will be ~$38 (compared to the gcloader at $105). It will also give you the ability to use the ode with the optical drive in place, getting the best of the gcloader and picoboot.
This was the first time I've used a stencil and solder paste to build up a pcb. It was so much easier to get all the components aligned and soldered on the board (on the back, there are 38 0603 capacitors which are always time consuming to hand solder). After just had to clear a few bridges and added a little extra solder to U1.
The project can be found here. It's feature set is comparable to x7 including no reset saving, game id compatibility with hdmi mods, emulators, and a rtc. Can be built for under $100.