Has anyone with a Stryfe X mentioned anything about storage charge for the battery? It seems like all it can do is plug in and charge to full from what I've seen.

In theory, could I use a USB-C to XT60 connector and charge that battery on my balance charger, or would the battery's internal board mess with that process somehow?

I managed to find a single Outlaw at a Target in Houston and decided to do a little video on how to easily prime and reload this thing. Both the hammer and cylinder are a bit stiff, but they're buttery smooth when you apply force the right way. Hopefully this helps some people who may not be familiar with a heavy hammer-action.

In a quest for truly stupid levels of precision, I've purchased this fantastic little angle finder. I want to securely mount it to a picatinny rail without having to create a custom mount. Are there universal mounts that attach to picatinny and just clamp down on anything you put in them?

I mean, I'm sure there are, but for some reason I'm struggling to search for them. Here's a link to the tool for dimensions and whatnot:

Magnetic Digital Angle Finder - Compact LED Digital Angle Gauge & Level Tool - Measures 0-360 Degree Ranges - Essential Woodworking, Electrical, Plumbing & Carpenter Tools https://a.co/d/20KHzQo

I invoke the deep magicks of nerfhaven. Is there a reason we never used doorknob latches as catch mechanisms? They're already shaped perfectly for a plunger to slide over them, and they come with a built-in trigger mech. Did they just not have strong enough springs, or was there another reason I never saw these in the pre-3D printer days?

For the first time in what feels like a long time, the Modulus Longstrike is on sale on Amazon for Prime Day. There are a lot of other blasters on sale as well, but I don't think I've ever seen the Longstrike this cheap.

https://a.co/d/0Y1kcII

I'm designing a printed stringer that uses a sled rather than direct string contact, and I'm trying to decide on whether the trigger should pull or push on the catch mech to release. In a direct contact stringer, the catch mech just pushes the string directly upward, so this is all new to me.

The sled is already pushing forward against the catch, so a pulling trigger would press the catch harder into the sled and pull it back further before releasing. A pushing trigger would instead move in the same direction as the string tension, temporarily reducing the load on the catch before releasing.

Is there a significant difference between these two methods? Should I just use a pivoting catch instead? Bear in mind that stringer springloads can get a lot, lot heavier than springers if desired, so I'm thinking in terms of what will be best for these printed parts as they produce constant lateral friction against each other.

I really like Bradley Phillips' accuracy test videos, and I'd like a sight similar to his, that's both accurate enough to test precision/accuracy at 100ish feet and can either work well with a recording device or has recording capabilities built in. Any recommendations for something I can get in the States? Picatinny compatibility is a must, but something that could also be mounted to other types of rails would be nice.

Anyone know the angle of the T238 tracer bearing scar? Is it 15 degrees like the Worker and Jingjia BCARs?