Interesting. I'm not seeing my instance in there at all.
How can you check to see if your instance is federated with them?
I like to drink Body Armor when I'm cycling or riding my motorcycle on a hot day.
The previous owner had swapped in some crappy single-tone horn for some reason and the wiring was pretty sketchy. Went in to fix the wiring and decided to upgrade the horn along the way.
I actually do customer support for a faxing service. You'd be amazed how widely used it is still.
The mesh ends up being pretty similar every time, showing that the right side of the bed is lower than the left. The concern is that, when printing after auto leveling, the nozzle is far too close on the right side, causing first layer issues, but all is well on the left. It's almost like the printer believes that the nozzle is further from the bed than it actually is, but only on one side.
I found that the bolts holding the gantry to the base had come loose slightly, and tightened them. That seemed to help a bit, but the issue is still there. I was going to try leveling the x gantry, but I'm still trying to figure out how to do so.
I did some research and was able to pull the mesh. I put it into a visualizer and found that the right side is definitely incorrect (as it matches with the "too low" behavior that I'm seeing. I tried to copy the image here, but Sync won't let me, but here's the values.
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
0 +0.03500 -0.02855 -0.09156 -0.15566 -0.22250 -0.29867 -0.38125 -0.45758 -0.51500 -0.54590 -0.55844 -0.56363 -0.57250
1 +0.01869 -0.01856 -0.05355 -0.09305 -0.14383 -0.21602 -0.30324 -0.38746 -0.45064 -0.48415 -0.49888 -0.50610 -0.51707
2 +0.00234 -0.00695 -0.01215 -0.02553 -0.05938 -0.12765 -0.22023 -0.31329 -0.38297 -0.41951 -0.43676 -0.44629 -0.45969
3 -0.01393 +0.00144 +0.02248 +0.03217 +0.01352 -0.05072 -0.14723 -0.24723 -0.32193 -0.36066 -0.37977 -0.39103 -0.40621
4 -0.03000 +0.00178 +0.04016 +0.06533 +0.05750 -0.00240 -0.09922 -0.20143 -0.27750 -0.31633 -0.33563 -0.34711 -0.36250
5 -0.04428 -0.00747 +0.03596 +0.06615 +0.06324 +0.00837 -0.08337 -0.18082 -0.25285 -0.28864 -0.30564 -0.31512 -0.32836
6 -0.05734 -0.02364 +0.01604 +0.04376 +0.04156 -0.00781 -0.09062 -0.17835 -0.24250 -0.27303 -0.28596 -0.29184 -0.30125
7 -0.07236 -0.04528 -0.01310 +0.00888 +0.00535 -0.03877 -0.11166 -0.18823 -0.24340 -0.26810 -0.27650 -0.27838 -0.28352
8 -0.09250 -0.07094 -0.04500 -0.02781 -0.03250 -0.07238 -0.13719 -0.20465 -0.25250 -0.27246 -0.27719 -0.27582 -0.27750
9 -0.11980 -0.10205 -0.08041 -0.06654 -0.07207 -0.10913 -0.16849 -0.22982 -0.27275 -0.28955 -0.29183 -0.28831 -0.28770
10 -0.15219 -0.13878 -0.12196 -0.11197 -0.11906 -0.15424 -0.20929 -0.26559 -0.30453 -0.31884 -0.31920 -0.31399 -0.31156
11 -0.18660 -0.17777 -0.16597 -0.16010 -0.16902 -0.20270 -0.25387 -0.30559 -0.34092 -0.35300 -0.35165 -0.34493 -0.34090
12 -0.22000 -0.21563 -0.20875 -0.20688 -0.21750 -0.24949 -0.29656 -0.34348 -0.37500 -0.38473 -0.38156 -0.37324 -0.36750
The bed leveling is done with the bed and nozzle preheated to printing temp. As for the probe, it's the stock probe on the Ender 3 Max Neo.
The interesting part is the heat soak. I typically heat it and then only wait a minute or two. I'll let it sit for a while and try again.
When printing on my Ender 3 Max Neo (stock except for a PEI bed), the right side of the bed is always printing too close. I manually leveled the bed, and then I run the auto-leveling sequence. I also have it set to run auto-level before every print, and confirmed that it's enabled using M420 S1 after the G29 in the opening gcode.
I also disabled it in one test with M420 S0 and confirmed that it is making a difference so it appears to be working, but the auto-level map seems to be incorrect every time. Any ideas?
Kriega makes great bags! I use a US-20 Drybag from them and absolutely love it. Easy to put on and take off of my KLR and I'd trust it to keep anything dry. It's also easy to move around to other bikes, especially if you get an extra set of straps.
This happens to me with Xbox controllers randomly. 90% of the time they work, but then I randomly need to re-pair, reboot the Deck, toggle Bluetooth (any of these make it work again), or grab a different controller.
That's what I imagined I'd see or hear and I'm not seeing any of that. I'll take a closer look again though now that I know for sure. Thanks!
Not that I'm aware of as I don't hear any odd noise from the extruder or see marks on the filament. I'm new to this though so I probably don't know what to look for. What told you that yours was slipping?
I played around with retraction a bit, but I'll give that another shot. Thanks for the input.
It seems to be randomly within a layer rather than at the start and changes to retraction don't seem to improve it. Oddly enough, I'm noticing on a more recent print that it seems to happen more frequently within supports (generated by Cura), which I think are printed faster.
I'll try drying the filament. All of my Creality filament is from Amazon, where as the Inland stuff is all from my local Micro Center. I wonder if the filament from Amazon is just sitting around for a while, or in poor conditions.
I'm pretty new to 3d printing as I just got an Ender 3 Max Neo for Christmas. I've been playing around with various filaments from Inland and Creality, but I'm having odd results with the Creality ones.
When using the Creality filaments, my prints get random holes, or outright fail, because of gaps when it's extruding. The roll is not tangled and my extruder doesn't appear to be slipping. I've tried adjusting speed, temperatures, flow, z offset, etc, but nothing is fixing the random gaps. The Inland filaments are working great and are very consistent. Any help is appreciated.
There's a test pad on the PCB labeled "LT" (left trigger). I used that and compared it's resistance to ground to that of the right trigger's test pad. I got about 6-10k ohms on the working one (right trigger), and 3.9-4.4 on this one.
I mostly do my own work, but whenever I do take my car to the local Mazda dealer, they always provide a full inspection report as well as a video of the tech checking everything and explaining anything that they've found. Even when my wife takes her car in for only basic maintenance (it's still under warranty so we take it in for oil changes), they do the same thing and don't charge anything extra.
Same dealer network owns the local Ford dealer and I ended up taking my old Fiesta ST there for an oil change as I didn't have the space to do it myself at the time. $45 for an oil change and tire rotation, and I got the same inspection report and video.
Trying to repair a Hyperkin Duke Xbox controller where the left trigger doesn't respond. Found that the resistance of this potentiometer doesn't change when it's moved, so I'm looking to replace it. I'm a novice with this stuff though and I'm having trouble identifying it. Any help is appreciated.
A while ago, there was something that showed the higher failure rate of various components on EVs because of the lack of routine service that has cars have. Basically, gas cars get a service and inspection every 5-10k miles when the oil is changed and any worn bearings, bushings, etc. are found. EVs don't have that so things go unnoticed until they fail. Could this be the same? Could the "reliability" concerns just be normal wear that isn't getting caught since there are no routing inspections?
I've got a 1984 Honda Elite 125 scooter and it misfires at top speed. At WOT, it pulls up to 48 MPH and starts popping and surging. Backing down to about 90% throttle smooths it out and brings it up to 50-51 MPH. I've tried changing the main jets and it makes no difference. It changes how hard and smoothly it accelerates, but it still starts stumbling at the same point.
I was thinking it had a rev limiter of some kind, but changing the CDI also had no impact.
So far, the carb has been replaced (PO put a 250 carb on it for some reason and it still had the same issue, but was running FAR too rich). Ignition coil, spark plug, plug wire, and CDI have all been replaced as well without change.
My wife and I headed out for our late honeymoon. It was supposed to be a 3-week trip and about 4000 miles. She was on her 2008 Concours, and me on my 2022 KLR 650, which just had new tires and tubes installed. About an hour into the trip, my bike started wobbling. It got worse so we pulled over and found that my tube popped for some reason. Now my wallet is $630 lighter from the tow and I'm back home with my bike parked an hour away so that it can get serviced. Hopefully we make it more than 50 miles tomorrow.
For some reason, I get an error whenever I try to post any text or image to any federated communities. This happens in WefWef, Connect, and Jerboa on Android. Haven't tried any other apps/sites yet.
I'm not sure if local ones work, but if you can see this post, then I guess it worked.