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Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience?
  • So, the PSU voltage switch is for setting input voltage. You might be running it on 110V instead of 230V, though unlikely but it doesn't hurt to check.

    Checking the y motor and endstop wiring I recommended because I had a similar problem on my x-axis when my motor wire and endstop wire came loose, where the motor was jittering and buzzing, but not moving.

    The .cfg file is the configuration file for Klipper firmware, which is taylored for your printer. Since you said that your firmware issues got fixed I don't think that's it, but if nothing else, redownload and reinstall the .cfg file and if that does not help, reinstall klipper as a last resort. Do so only if nothing else helps.

    If you need more help, I could help you through video chat. Just DM me.

  • Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience?
  • So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that's it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it "lacks" is a filament sensor (haven't had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.

  • Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience?
  • All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It's not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.

  • Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience?
  • So lets start from the top:

    1. All printers have the same precision.

    2. I guess you're talking about input shaping, which reduces artifacts and shaking of the printer (a little)

    3. Most budget printers right now have lots of the same creature comforts that this printer has.

    Right now the biggest things are community/aftermarket support (moddability), price and firmware. You should get Klipper to get input shaping, so that narrows it down. Look for some klipper printers (e.g. Sovol sv07) and decide which one you like best. They are almost all the same, save for qc and qa issues by some companies and sometimes lackluster support. Any printer can produce awesome prints. It's only a question of how much time you have to fiddle with the settings. Cheers!

  • Recommend me a new FDM printer
  • Sovol sv06 is one of the best ones in terms of price to performance. If you want great customer support, get a Prusa. I can't recommend bambu lab because of their closed off system and bad security practices.

  • It was not a loose thermistor after all, thank you for your help!
  • Glass bead thermistors have very fragile wires and sometimes you can't see a break that has occured. I replaced mine with a cartridge as fast as possible, but good on you for finding and solving the problem.

  • Our Computer
  • I used the windows debloater to remove most telemetry and then shut off services that were left in the task manager until something broke completely. It was a bit of a process but it worked. I use my PC for 3d modeling and gaming. Never used half the integrated apps because I have no need or already have better ones or actually a physical calculator. In general with my PCs I just delete anything that I will never use. Like office for example.

  • Our Computer
  • Yeah, i disabled basically all telemetry on windows. I also will never upgrade to 11. It sucks donkey balls. Also I haven't noticed any change in edge being gone. Maybe I just got lucky.

    Forgot to say, I got my keys from a system builder who had a shit ton of them but had to get them off the shelves because windows 11 was around the corner. So they are all legally obtained.

  • Our Computer
  • That is exactly why you buy cheap keys for your windows install and remove everything you don't need. Edge got nuked from orbit by me and most annoying ads disappeared with it. I killed all notifications and I am now much happier.

  • We are all winners
  • Umm, ackhchually, the first sperm usually doesn't get to the egg. It weakens the outer membrane enough for others to try, and whichever sperm gets lucky to finally break through impregnates the egg. The first one is usually out of energy by that point. So you were lucky to capitalize on the work of others. Cheers!

  • Functional 3D Printing @kbin.social kek_w_lol @lemmy.one
    Designed a Master Spool that is easy to print

    Designed an easy to print spool held together by M3 screws. No supports necessary. Master Spool standard.

    STEP and STL here: www.printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

    1
    Designed a robust Master Spool that is easy to print

    3d printed threads and snap connectors are nice, but M3 bolts and nuts are more robust and look dope. They also make the model easier todesign print, since you don't have to worry about tolerances as much.

    STEP/STL and instructions available here: www.printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

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    What are your thoughts on the Hero Me system?

    Hey guys. Just wanted to hear some opinions on the Hero Me system. I personally think it's an neat idea and am definitely going to build one. What do you think? Have you used it?

    2
    Designed a master spool that is robust and easy to print

    Printed threads and snap connectors are nice, but M3 bolts and nuts are more robust and look dope. They also make the model easier to design and print, since you don't have to worry about tolerances as much.

    STEP files here: printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

    2
    Is chain driven CoreXY possible?

    Hi all! I need a high temperature (~200C) motion system for ahem reasons. I know that at those temperatures steppers tend to cook, so keeping them inside the heated chamber is out of the question. I have already considered belts, screws (lead and ball) and stainless cable. Belts will not work because they will melt. Screws do not allow for static motor mounting and stainless steel cable has slip and extreme tension. Do you guys think chains and sprockets will work? Are they precise enough? Any input is welcome.

    10
    InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)KE
    kek_w_lol @lemmy.one
    Posts 5
    Comments 62