The way the test is implemented through orca slicer is actually a bit confusing. The forks of bambulab and orca slicer are likely intermingled. I used the default settings given in the drop menu then it imported a model. I then started the test as is without modifying anything.
I honestly have no idea which the correct values were for the p1p. Now that you mentioned it, I suppose I should have checked with bambulabs online manual. I hadn't thought about that.
I'm currently trying to solve some seam artifacts. I assumed retraction has something to do with it.
The print is so small and I literally cannot see the results. I can't even photograph it clear enough with my camera phone.
I must have done something wrong because the whole tower looks pretty much the same except for a clear overextrusion around the middle on one side. The rest have really thin barely visible strings that don't go very far.
I read through the Orca Slicer manual on github, but I don't understand how the retraction test works. I have no idea how I'm suppose to distinguish the results. Would anyone like to explain in layman's terms what it is I'm looking for?
I'm not really concerned about my former issue. I hadn't yet touched the calibration settings of my printer. They made a significant difference. I got a completely different issue now which I'm certain is the big one that nobody has a set answer for.
Yeah just the residue, no visible pieces of tape. Sorry for the late response.
Glad to know. I wasn't aware of dead zones unil now. I'll have to research that.
I admit I tried using every gram. Still I found some of the tape residue on the inside of the spool. Thanks for the advice.
I guess it would be small. What about a small triangle of it?
I'm asking because I got a weird droplet in my feed that showed up in a duplicate print.
Is it possible for the leftover residue, of tape on a spool to be scraped into the feed? As the filament drags over the edges of the spool?
Yeah I haven't heard of it. Thanks for the info. Not sure if that would solve my problem though.
There's so many advantages to making your own. No wait time, and custom pieces. Only the connections are needed.
I had assumed they were referring to pouring and not a resin printer. Using a mold is definitely a full proof approach.
You might be right about that. Still being able to print at that quality or near it, would look good.
Yeah I hadn't thought about getting the smaller bits off the plate.
I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.
Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?