Also good for getting to pornhub.com if you live in one of the states they’ve blocked.
Neusthetic counseling or WTF the fundies call their fake therapy and then he’s fine. They will call him a recovering sex addict (I.E. On the same level as a married man who watches porn, in their usage of the phrase) and who will dissociate when you try to talk to them about what he actually did.
I can't hear you over the din of the kali box whites and the screaming child, what did you say?
And yet we act like boiled frogs, each generation making fun of the prior one for expecting things to be better than they are. Gen z is so used to things being like shit that they think that all older generations are entitled fuckers And that we should get used to everything being worse because Right now it’s the best they’ve ever known.
I had an entirely different experience with Windows ME than seemingly everyone else. In my experience windows Me fixed a ton of hardware issues. I preferred it over 98 SE back in the day.
The XL has zero parts availability. I love them, but you can't even gert the dual-composite stylus for it anymore.
So there wasn't any visible debris upon disassembly but directly attacking the button with contact cleaner was effective.
Did you ever figure it out? I spent some time puzzling over your post, wondering if you managed to spot a difference between the other working GG and the one that operates when the cap is removed??
Winner winner chicken dinner. I had to take off the back, but to get a good angle on the button I had to remove the orange stylus retainer and lift up the button PCB. Contact cleaner, working the switch, and then one failed and one successful shot at getting the button assembly perfectly aligned - VERY easy to JUST BARELY misalign it and remove ALL click which is entirely the opposite of what we're looking for.
I finally see why people directly blasting contact cleaner into the button area [EDIT: without opening the shell] IS a viable trick, but given the excess you spray to actually get the button means that you're also risking saturating the screen (which might not be permanent, if you're using a regular contact cleaner and not fancy shit like deoxit, which would almost certainly ruin the screen). Thanks for the assurance that it's a solid chance of success, you're totally right. I just hate flex cables and their connectors.
Winner winner chicken dinner. I had to take off the back, but to get a good angle on the button I had to remove the orange stylus retainer and lift up the button PCB. Contact cleaner, working the switch, and then one failed and one successful shot at getting the button assembly perfectly aligned - VERY easy to JUST BARELY misalign it and remove ALL click which is entirely the opposite of what we're looking for.
I finally see why people directly blasting contact cleaner into the button area IS a viable trick, but given the excess you'd spray to actually get the button means that you're also risking saturating the screen (which can dry out if you're using a basic contact cleaner and not fancy shit like deoxit, which would almost certainly ruin the screen). Thanks for the assurance that it's a solid chance of success, you're totally right.
My human! Thank you, time to break out Ol’ Spudgy McSpudgerson and the ifixit Driver Band, I hope we do enjoy the show.
Thanks. I truly dislike working on the NDS and its progeny, except for the 1st gen 2DS. It is stupidly easy to disturb the ribbon cables even with the most careful hand.
Which doesn’t do much to explain why I bought a pile of DSi XLs to fix up. Separate issue.
I figured disassembly and cleaning might help but thought maybe there was an actual viable trick.
Note that a big risk with contact cleaner is that it easily penetrates into the screen. If you’re using an old school contact cleaner this usually isn’t fatal as it tends to quickly evaporate over a few hours at worst. But if you’re using deoxit or something with oils, you will damage the appearance of the screen.
I have a DSi that is in very good condition but for the right shoulder button. It does work but I have to press very hard to get it to register. The "lift up the button and blow into it" does actually improve the function of the button for a bit (I use canned air, not moist mouth) but it doesn't take long at all to NOT work either. Does anyone have a REAL solution that actually works short of disassembly and replacement of the button?
Why did Dr Mario cost $120?!? I never saw SNES games costing that much. Sounds more like Neo Geo game prices from what I remember.
Trust me, my rural neighbors on all fucking sides of me aren’t hunting with the ARs they start shooting the fucking moment the get home from church on Sundays. And given the number of stray bullet incidents, they ain’t Boy Scouts either.
Actually the level of ignorance is easy to express, if you’re William Faulkner. There are vast swaths of humanity that are dumb as fucking rocks. It’s not polite to talk about but as someone involved in education admin, there are these kinds of parents EVERYWHERE. I’ve literally sat in disciplinary appeals where the parents try to explain that their child HAD to have a concealed dagger for protection. In a k-12 school with 400 kids total, no school resource officers/popo, no fights, highly involved parents, etc. Um, no, your child is expelled and I’m slightly terrified that they’ll shoot us up when they turn 20 and start going schizto.
I’ve got to say that the file explorer tabs are a great addition/comeback, and a vastly improved experience over the 90s incarnation where drag and drop was often hamstrung by system responsiveness (and could you even drag and drop to inactive tabs to activate them and bring them to the front back then? Don’t recall.) Using them in KDE Plasma at home , when i got a new win11laptop for work I was thrilled with many of the interface improvements. The telemetry and “widgets” are trash, though, as are the permanent ads in the windows context menu.
You sound like an a-hole. How does it feel to be bluntly communicated with?
As mentioned, fuse was blown on battery board. There was also battery corrosion. Reflowed solder on corroded solder joints, used fiberglass scratch pen to expose traces next to the absent fuse solder pads, and used a wire fragment/solder blob to bridge the gap for testing. It worked. Now need fuses. Overscratch area was covered with clear nail varnish (not visible but it’s there). Someday I’ll get myself some proper solder resist and a UV light.
Three items of note:
(1) the power connector (red/black wire connecting battery board to main board) disconnects by LIFTING the connector out of the socket, not by pulling horizontally.
(2) the D-pad left button didn’t work well. I blasted the rubber pad and external d-pad button with contact cleaner (even though there is no electrical connection involved with these items). There was hardly any dirt, so I didn’t think it would work. Holy shit was I wrong.
(3) the blue power LEDs don’t light. No idea if my board work broke the LEDs or if it happened when the fuse blew.
There was a deleted post on here where someone was getting no response from the Wii but it was outputting a black screen with a white dot in the upper right. My guess was that it is a dead/loose bluetooth module, but I took two months to notice the post and only realized it was deleted after I was unable to comment (mods can see deleted posts). Regardless, I wanted to bring this Wii troubleshooting flowchart to people's attention.
Sorry about the stock photo. Anyone ever have luck rehabbing one of these boards? Recently got my hands on a DSi XL missing the battery and battery cover. Yellow flashing light of death even with replacement battery. On disassembly, there was battery corrosion. The fuse on the battery board was not only blown, it was totally absent and the pads are corroded away. I could probably rework the fuse pads but it’s very tiny work. Ribbon connector also corroded but might be salvageable. I know there are replacement boards still readily available.
Anyone know where you can get replacement battery covers, besides buying either a parts unit (for stupidly high prices, what do these hawkers think a repair unit is worth?!?) or a full replacement shell for $30? Anyone 3D printing them yet?
Do you wonder "what is the appropriate goop to use in this repair?" Let's talk about it. First things first:
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petroleum based products risk degrading plastic and should not be used
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WD-40 is a petroleum based solvent and is not a good lubricant in any situation
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Plastic on plastic interfaces (e.g., microswitches in a joystick) can be lubricated with white lithium grease spray
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Rosin-containing (amber colored) "no-clean" flux liquid is good for solder rework but HOLY FUCK it is hard to clean up even with IPA
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Hot glue is NEVER THE RIGHT CHOICE. Use kapton tape to hold wires and for the love of god if you are doing a mod that adds a port through the case, use a compatible 2 part epoxy or a 3d printed bracket (or hell, a spacer made of paper) to friction fit it, because that glue is going to give way, it's just a matter of when.
Your turn - share your hard earned lessons regarding the right and wrong goops to use in different repair situations.
One of my favorite mods to do is restoring RGB and S-Video capabilities to the NTSC SNES Jr. (which is a cost-reduced version of the "one-chip" SNES) using voultar's mod.
What I want to know is this: why can I use a cheap-ass friction-welded Aliexpress SNES multiout RGB NTSC SCART cable (EXAMPLE ONLY, I DID NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON) to connect my voultar mod SNES Jr. to the OSSC, and I have a PERFECT PICTURE on my HDTV, when, alternatively, I use the console5 mod with the same cable and OSSC and I have sync issues (sometimes a distorted signal, sometimes "No compatible signal" black screen from my HDTV)?
Voultar uses a better video amp than most of his competitors, mainly because with the THS7374 you can disable the LPF, while most competitors use the THS7314/7316 video amp with the LPF permanently enabled. But this should not impact sync, should it?
Someone explain why I can use stupidly cheap cables on voultars SNES RGB mod but not other's mods.
How long does it take for a properly working Nintendo DSi softmodded with Twilightmenu++/nds-bootstrap to load a game from the SD card? It seems to take nearly a minute to load a game for me. Everything works perfectly, it just seems to take a stupidly long time to get through the nds-bootstrap process (the first load of a game takes the longest, but subsequent loads of that game are only slightly faster).
Meanwhile I have a Nintendo DSlite with a flashcart that is wicked fast to start a game, but the power consumption of the thing in standby mode is out of control to the point that standby mode is essentially unuseable.
Is the trade-off really between stupidly long game loading times if using nds-bootstrap to start a game on the DSi but great power consumption, and wicked fast game loading but terrible battery life on a DSlite with a flashcart? Or is something wrong with my Twilightmenu++/NDS-bootstrap install?
There was no coordinated effort to relocate r/consolerepair to a lemmy community, so we're starting from scratch. The community is open to console repair questions for all generation consoles, as well as functional mods (e.g., ODE/RGB/HDMI mods). Come on over!
I have an NES front-loader where I fried something in the "silver box" that handles power and A/V (this NES part has no consistent name in the repair/modding community, that I can tell, so I'm calling it the front loader's "silver box").
I was using poor technique with my multimeter trying to test the voltage regulator and I think I shunted 12v to ground. I have an entirely socketed NES for chip testing and all of the IC's work fine. The issue seems entirely limited to the silver box.
Rather than try and rebuild the silver box, I was thinking of seeing what "no-cut" options are out there. TheRealPhoenix used to sell Borti's no-cut NES-IO but COVID part shortages made the PIC it relies on hard to get, and he lost interest in returning it to production as certain features it had are now unnecessary (e.g., game controller activated in-game reset and palette mod changing is now available with v4 of the Tim Worthington NESRGB mod).
Does anyone know where I can order a "silver box replacement kit" that has the following features: (1) interfaces with v4 of NESRGB, and (2) uses a mini-DIN for RGB output and also has s-video output?
I know I could locate an appropriate PCB that comes with a BOM (parts list) where I could source parts separately, but I'd rather buy a kit.
A lot of the bare PCB's that are posted online seem to require trimming a corner of the NES PCB or the internal case to make it fit, or rely on cutting a hole in the brittle NES case to install a SNES multi-out)
Givent the above info, can anyone recommend either:
- a no-cut kit that is available for purchase, or, if none exists,
- a straightforward PCB that requires no trimming of the hardware or the case with a BOM/parts listing that doesn't require unobtainium
I see folks crossposting but I don't see how to do it in my lemmy interface (lemmy.world) - I can choose a single community to post to, not multiple.
Is there a way to not have to select "english" every time I post or comment? I thought my language selection at account creation would take care of it.
I see people cross-posting but I don't know how they are doing it. All I see for posting options on the lemmy interface is a single community I can select.
I love how Adrian Black shows what the scope should look like for the C64 on power on, etc. but I have never seen anyone do the same for an NES. It would be a fascinating video. Anyone seen anything like this?
I am looking for a console repair community. I didn't see one when I searched "all" communities on lemmy.world. But I'm new here and didn't want to reduplicate a community that already exists perhaps under a different name?