My indoor growing space is bursting at the seams with mountain mint and some very leggy tomatoes I'm babysitting for a friend while she's on vacation. The weather has been relatively pleasant though, so I've gotten a few more things potted and several more trays going now as well.

• Some grasses, elderberry, and Carolina allspice in pots with some hibiscus cuttings in the box !

• Chokeberries, more elderberries, a few types of raspberries, and a few lowbush blueberries I've managed to keep alive after transplanting !

• Even more chokeberries, and a whole other type of raspberry (these ones are red) !

• Another round of brassicas started !

• My worksite supervisor taking a break under a second type of mountain mint I'm growing this year !

What's growing on with you all?

[Image description: clusters of violets bloom in a section of our front yard]

I would like to eventually begin growing my own food and herbs. Do any of you have good book recommendations for growing food, herbs, or possibly herbal medicine?

I know there are a million options, so a few places to start would be really helpful. I want to start with herbs in a raised planter. I’m in the midwest US, so I’ll bring the herbs into an indoor greenhouse cabinet during the winter.

The larger scale of trying to eat only my own vegetables and maybe chickens/goats would likely be in the distant future.

cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/692861243492956253

> Everything is so green all of a sudden. > > \#backyard #lush #lawn #springtime > > @crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

[Image description: fallen white cherry petals adorn a moss covered stone]

Potting continues here; there are almost eighty elderberries hanging out in our front yard right now in addition to the others (happy to share what the others are if anyone is actually curious). Overnight temperatures are still a little low for some of the transplants potted up this past week and I am running out of shelf space under lights indoors.

Our gardens up front are waking up and they always fill me with joy:

!

What's growing on with you all?

We're halfway through potting up all the plants we've overwintered, but are looking at temps below freezing for the next two nights. Today will be about getting covers ready for everything and setting up ambient warmth for several of our plants that are currently flowering. On my way home from a doctor's appointment, I stopped to pick up a cutting of a curly willow (Salix matsudana) from a woman in town whose tree was damaged in a recent snow storm.

!

This one cutting was turned into a dozen after I got home. I've planted out three or four and the remaining sections were loosely bundled and placed into our five gallon bucket with several other varieties of willow we're rooting in water.

What's growing on with you all?

[Image description: clusters of white cherry blossoms bloom along a branch]

!

[Image description: bundles of flower buds prepare to bloom]

!

[Image description: a Nan King cherry shows off its flowers and buds in several stages of development on a warm spring morning]

Here's a little inspiration for folks with small plots and big dreams - Bulgarian homestead on 500m² / ⅛ acre

I'm sorry for missing last week, I was so in the thick of storm cleanup I genuinely forgot how days work. As an apology, here's a picture of one of our cherries ready to pop for spring: !

What's growing on with you all?

Last autumn I stored several acorns in a 5-inch pot that was filled with potting soil and covered. I took the cover off 2 days ago to discover 7 saplings between 3 and 7 inches long. They are too big for the pot I was storing them in. Are they safe to transplant at this stage? What size pot should I transplant them in? How do I safely move them without damaging them?

(Description: Image of Osmia bicornis (I think) chilling on a leaf and cleaning itself.)

picture of garden beds with plants or seeds, St Andrew’s Cross bush, a tree branch, and a berm

Nitrogen-Fixing Food Crops

1. "Iron and Clay" cowpea (ran out, so went back and scattered them out well)
2. Snap Pole Bean Rattlesnake 🫘
3. Snap Bush Bean Mountaineer White Half-Runner 🫛

Nitrogen-Fixing Cover Crops

1. Crimson Clover
2. Red Clover
3. Alfalfa
4. White clover

Cover Crop

Buckwheat. (couldn't get drought-tolerant. sold out)

Crops

1. Anasazi sweet corn (almost out. definitely need to save some of these seeds and the cowpeas)
2. sunflower (edible, not ornamental or bird seed)
3. Flat parsley - ran out, time for regular, curly parsley.
4. Red Ruby 🥬
5. Detroit Dark beet
6. Early Scarlet radish - I am not sure if I will like this, but I missed the daikon radishes so.
7. Southern curly mustard - doing well and always resembles a tastey dinner, happily soaking up the ☀️ from a pot.
8. Leek
9. Red Russian kale 🥬
10. Swiss Chard - like beet seed because they are in the same family, who are all drought tolerant. I got a clump of seeds the other day!

Crop for cat

Cat grass

It took a few hours to cut the grass in today’s garden bed. It was a bit daunting and a bit tedious sometimes, and sometimes, I just wanted it to be over with; but other times, I was lazily lying on my mat and trimming the grass.

I started with cat grass on the edge of the bed since it’s on the edge of the garden plot, so if the neighbor cat comes back over, they might figure out that there’s a snack there for them. I had some buckwheat, today. I’m growing that as cover and maybe some food/seed.

I found a little more grass as I was dropping the initial type(s) of seed. Of course, this grass-cutting might be unnecessary, and a controlled burn might be easier. Like, if there's enough room for a fire, just piling up limbs or sticks that I'm trying to get rid of and burning them on a permitted day with a water hose nearby might make a great garden bed.

Didn't put any food crops with cat grass but did put cover crops. I hope the cats don't poop on my food crops! But if they do, I will clean it out, and I could let those crops go to seed? Some animal has dug some more in my plot and a bed. Previously, they had dug in the mulch near a garlic plant.🧄

With the big seeds, I can space them out by hand.

Stare-at-sky break, some stretches. No, I am not praying.

Not much drought.

I just go by one of those seed schedules that I see in seed stores or seed swaps. Didn't do that until last autumn.

When I walk by my food, grown full of nutrients, it's easy to harvest them

St Andrew's Cross volunteer who gets yellow cross flowers, provides seeds for birds & pollen for bees and butterflies, and might nurse the crops with shelter and shade during the scorching summers.

There are about a hundred potted perennials out on my front lawn right now as the latest wintry mix hits our area, and someone dropped off a huge box of cell trays and small pots to us yesterday. Some of them will go to our local library for their gardeners workshops and to prep for their annual plant sale fundraiser, some will go to the Master Gardeners program for their spring fundraiser, and I will attempt to find space for what we end up keeping.

What's growing on with you all?

This started growing in my backyard and I have no clue what it is. Can you guys identify it?

Today marks the beginning of the second full week of Spring in the northern hemisphere, even if some of us are stuck in second winter. Share your garden goals, projects, challenges, and successes for this growing season; share your tips, tricks, and garden hacks, or anything else you'd like. Let's all help each other grow something beautiful together!

If folks are into it, I'd like to make this a weekly thread for everyone to share updates and assistance as the year progresses. Please let me know if that's something you'd all like.

[Image description: a Sedum's old blooms are encased in ice]

While I don't love what ice storms do to this year's buds, their effects on the leftovers from last year are beautiful.

What's everybody doing to celebrate?

I didn't realize how many challenges and on the fly design changes I would have building on a slope, but I think they are still coming out really nice.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/63959

> cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/675140687607015636 > > > The flowerbeds in front of my house could use some work. > > > > I'd like to replace what I've got with some colorful plants, but I'm not sure what to pick that's appropriate for the environment or even what sort of design guidelines to follow that will lead to a handsome result. Would anyone care to offer some suggestions? This side of the house gets plenty of sun and faces South. The location is in Essex County, New Jersey. > > > > \#gardening #landscaping #design #diy > > > > @crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

Photo Description

Top Left: Tree unbalanced. Left side producing little. Right side producing well.

Top Right: Shown from opposite side. Full limbs visible without flowering.

Bottom left: Close up of the left side of the tree. Several branches not flowering down full length.

Bottom right: Closer view of the graft and up.

Please do ask for any more clarifying photos if you think it would help.

Questions:

• The tree just started blooming this week. Is it too late to start pruning or should I wait until Autumn?

• Pruning the tree is going to make it even more lopsided than it already is. Would you all recommend trimming back the healthy branches so it's not so heavy on one side?

• This website gives the advice below. Any thoughts otherwise?

Thank you all so much!

___

How to Prune a Weeping Cherry Tree

The different types of weeping cherries can grow to between eight and 40 feet tall. Proper pruning keeps these trees looking beautiful and can prevent the development and spread of diseases. Prune while the tree is dormant (no flowers or leaves on the branches) in early spring or late fall. Take the following steps once a year with bypass pruning shears or a pole pruner.

• Cut back any branches that contact the ground until they’re at least six inches off the ground.
• Remove branches that are rubbing against each other.
• Trim back branches that are closer than two inches apart.
• Remove dead branches.
• Remove stems or branches growing out of the trunk or around the base of the tree (a.k.a. suckers).
• Trim back the tips of the branches around the perimeter of the canopy until it’s a balanced, uniform shape.
• Remove branches that are growing straight up on grafted cherry trees because they will continue to grow upward instead of weeping down.
• Thin out the mangled cluster of branches that often develops near the base of the canopy of grafted trees.
• Remove diseased branches as soon as they’re discovered, regardless of the time of year. Sterilize the blade of your cutting tool in between cuts to prevent disease spread.

https://xerces.org/blog/dont-spring-into-garden-cleanup-too-soon for a slightly more serious take on the topic.

For those of you here who aren't subscribed to !chat there is a discussion about Thomas Berry's 10 Principles of Rights.

Here's a snippet to whet your appetite: "Every component of the Earth community has three rights: the right to be, the right to habitat, and the right to fulfill its role in the ever-renewing process of the Earth community."

Hope to see you all over there

Picture of a little brown and orange salamander on a pebbled sidewalk.

Our neighborhood has a cat problem which means my garden has a cat problem. I've read online that some people spread chilli powder on their soil to keep cats away but I'd really rather not do that.

Hopefully it's a common enough problem that someone here has found a better solution. Help please!

Are you starting on your gardening journey this year? Maybe branching out to some new-to-you plants? Trying out a new style of gardening?

Share your questions! Share your plans! How can we help you grow something wonderful? What do you wish you knew more about?

And remember, if you don't need this thread then this thread needs you!

[Image description: the very first growth from a Lindera benzoin seed has just emerged]

Here's a shot of one of the hundreds of seeds I transplanted yesterday. Lindera benzoin is also known as spicebush and is a critical plant for the spicebush swallowtail butterfly

We had them cold stratifying (a process that involves storing at low temperatures to overcome seed dormancy) in a five gallon bucket in a roughly 3 foot/ 1 meter pile of wood chips from the drop we had last year. They were stored in a substrate of aged wood chips, compost, rabbit droppings, and biochar we had soaked in our duck pond by using a recycled onion sack.

They were removed from the bucket and transferred to an air prune box, where we'll grow them for a year before planting a good portion of them on the property and (fingers crossed) sell the rest to pay for my plant addiction.

• Edit to show how cool the spicebush swallowtail is

Video for those who prefer video. An edited transcript with links to related images is below. Original documents are available and if you don't want to use google hmu privately however you want and I'll send them your way via other means.

Hey there everybody. Let’s think and talk about wind as it relates to forest gardening. In order to do that, we should probably start by defining some terms that underpin this discussion so we’re all on the same page.

Prevailing winds are regionally specific surface winds that predominantly come from a particular direction. While buildings, trees, and other structures on your site or the surrounding area might influence the way wind expresses on your site, the prevailing winds for your area will determine much of the direction of the air flow.

A windbreak is an object or group of objects which provide shelter from the wind. The area and amount of protection provided depends on a number of factors that we’ll discuss a little later.

The windward side of a windbreak is the side which faces the open, unobstructed wind. The leeward side of said windbreak is the side which is more protected from the prevailing winds by the windbreak. Yes, while the leeward side has greater protection there is still a benefit afforded to the windward side of these structures.

So why such a focus on windbreaks? I think they’re a useful model for understanding how our forests and forest gardens interact with the winds on our sites. If we’re approaching a forest or forest garden as a large pattern in our pattern language, it makes sense to view it as a repeating pattern of various nested windbreaks - much in the same way that a house is a repeating pattern of various nested rooms. It also provides us with a framework for understanding these properties and processes in an approachable way, without necessarily needing to have memorized these formulas by heart.

In short, a windbreak provides protection by disturbing and redistributing the flow of air around, over, and through it. The turbulence caused by the windbreak on its windward side is what gives protection to that face of the structure. That same turbulence drives some of the air mass around the obstruction and also creates a lifting effect that sends another portion of the wind over the windbreak, buoying higher air masses over objects that are in the wind shadow, which is another name for the area protected by the windbreak. When considering these effects in our forest gardens, this model of forests as a series of windbreaks can help us to better envision, map, and design for these protected spaces.

Still with me? Great because we’re through the introduction.

Think about the trees on your site. Picture them. Even better, measure and record a representative sample. How tall are they? How varied in height are they? How densely vegetated is the canopy? How greatly does the canopy vegetation change between seasons? What percentage of their total height is made up of the canopy? These are all important factors to keep in mind.

The height of the windbreak determines the overland distance of the protected area, often expressed as a multiple of the height. The density of vegetation in the crown and of the individuals that make up the windbreak define the effect of how much of the wind force is disturbed, diffused, and resisted. Some of this turbulence is what causes the air masses to rise as stated earlier. Other amounts of the overall wind will be dissipated or resisted by the tree. The ratio of living crown to tree height help to determine the tree’s capture potential, as well as describing where on the tree the fulcrum of resistance exists. When you see trees swaying and bending in the wind, the point between the ground and the top where the flex is occurring is heavily influenced by this crown ratio. These aren’t small amounts of force either, as we can see in this table. I’ll note that these measurements are based on studying sole open grown trees but that doesn’t detract from their usefulness in building a mental model of our forests with which we can work.

If we pretend for a moment that this is a well drawn representation of a three dimensional forested space with various types of vegetation, as viewed from above, we can begin to apply what we know about wind forces and the effects they’ll encounter as they move through our space.

As the wind interacts with the vegetation at varying heights, it creates eddies and currents which carry less embodied energy and can be more easily resisted and dissipated by further leeward plants. Having this vegetative cover at multiple heights can greatly improve the protective value of the windbreak, especially on sites where the canopy has closed enough to limit the presence of subcanopy trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants. Forested spaces like these with similar heights may afford protection from the wind around their canopy but in the spaces around the trunks we may experience wind tunnel conditions that would not be present with greater variability in height across individuals. This benefit from greater density across heights presents diminishing returns past densities of 60 to 80 percent; the leeward side of the windbreak or forest will experience less protection at distances from 13 to 30 times the height of the trees than it would from the density ranging from 40 to 60 percent.

Now that we have a better understanding of how wind will interact with the space, we can begin to plan for the best placement or orientation of any gaps, clearings, and other openings for access or new growing opportunities. I’ll be describing these openings relative to the height of the trees, as a number H. So for example, if I were to say 2H I would be referencing an overland distance equal to two times the height of a given tree. If your tree is twenty feet tall, that would be forty feet from the tree. Since these values are based on the height of the trees present, you can apply them to your own space regardless of how tall the trees are.

The protection zone provided by windbreaks can extend up to thirty times the height of the structure, but the greatest protective value exists between zero to 10H. Folks looking to have open growing conditions in between windbreaks can reasonably space their windbreaks from 10 to 15H and still see remarkable reductions in wind speed and pressure in the areas between. Since many of the openings we consider in forest gardening tend to be small, from 0 to 6H, well planned gaps, clearings, and glades can still see wind speed reductions of 60 to 70 percent. For forested sites like ours, it’s reasonable to assume that our conditions will resemble the magenta line of this graph. For those of you with more open sites, consider your windbreak designs with this data in mind. The type of structure you create may have one set of properties at the beginning, but the variety and proximity of future plantings or infrastructure will likely have an effect on the protected area. By the way, there are links to all of these documents down in the description so you can reference them when you need to.

This protected zone’s contiguity relies on a few guidelines for how we design the breaks and spaces in the windbreak that allow access and cultivation opportunities. When designing these gaps, the benefits of increased light access are greatest when they are oriented poleward - facing south in the northern hemisphere and north in the southern. Since most prevailing winds tend to move east to west or vice versa, this north-south orientation dovetails nicely with wind protection efforts. Guideline one is to orient the breaks in the canopy poleward in general. A wind rosette from data collected on site or from a nearby weather reporting station like an airport is a good way to know where your prevailing winds are coming from and will provide you with the means to influence your poleward oriented gaps to the east or west as your site details and goals dictate.

Access points, paths, and roads may end up being oriented more towards east and west due to the necessary orientation of our gaps and clearings, as well as our need as managers and stewards to connect them. If we are not deliberate in their design, we may introduce wind tunnel conditions to our space with potentially devastating results. Without introducing mitigating factors, entrances and access points aligned with prevailing winds can create areas which experience wind forces up to twenty percent greater than even open conditions - that’s two to six times greater than what the rest of our windbreak or forest space is experiencing. So here’s guideline two: whenever possible, don’t orient these breaks with the prevailing winds. Some sites will obviously have a greater chance of accommodating this than others. For those of you whose sites are less suited to this recommendation, there are a few more design guidelines that can help you maintain the protective value.

With a single row of a windbreak structure, any break will likely be oriented in a way that faces the prevailing wind. This can be addressed by adding additional rows to the overall structure of the windbreak. On open sites, be sure to design the spacing of additional plantings or structures to cover or shield the break in the previous windward row by offsetting the new installation. In more heavily vegetated sites, our harvests and removals of trees and timber can define the orientation of the break away from the prevailing winds where we are.

Introducing meanders and increasing the sinuosity of pathways not only make the space more interesting to move through, they add curves and texture that help to break up and diffuse the air currents that move along them. Creating lumpier texture in the three dimensional space surrounding the pathways can further reduce the strength of any winds, so use curving lines to create your paths and dress their sides with pits and mounds planted to species with a variety of heights and foliage types.

In cases where a site’s existing species have reached mature ages and architectures, leaving existing individuals along a pathway can be a method of keeping continuity in the canopy while opening the subcanopy to new possibilities. Select for trees with interconnected or adjacent drip lines whose trunks are distant enough to facilitate your access needs. Deciduous trees are likely to fill this role well at certain sites, but look to the species endemic to your region and consider what management practices could help to achieve this. Perhaps everything around you is a conifer, but limb removals up to a certain height could make this guideline more achievable. Following this guideline also preserves the means of travel for small forest creatures which has additional ecosystem services your designs will surely benefit from.

Making a detailed working model of your site and leveraging the advice and guidelines in this can help to ensure that your designs can handle the pressure and won’t just blow over when they meet resistance. A very special thanks to all the researchers who are smarter than me and made their findings available so that you and I could have a better understanding of our world, and thanks to all of you that made it this far.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/58627

> cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/666697779718442649 > > > Damn squirrels. 🐿️ > > > > Look how they massacred my boy. I didn't mind them occasionally helping themselves, but now they've ruined it for everyone for the foreseeable future. At least the camera module and solar panel are okay, so maybe I can design and build something more resilient to these infernal rodents. Shame on #BirdBuddy that their feeder can't withstand a seven foot drop onto grass. > > > > \#squirrels #birdfeeder #ThisMeansWar > > > > @crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

Spring is approaching! I've just set up a level 1 greenhouse (plastic tier, I'll have to grind to upgrade to glass and metal....). Regardless, it's exciting! My seedlings are doing well, I can't wait for better weather! !

What are you going to grow this year, Beehaw?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/52702

> cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/661632092317257523 > > > Check out this one-eyed cardinal that's been visiting my dad's bird feeder. > > > > \#birds #cardinal #NatureIsMetal #birdbuddy #webcam > > > > @crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/51601

> cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/660817600927718275 > > > A blessed #Wrensday to all who celebrate! > > > > \#wednesday #BirdBuddy #wrens #birbs #borbs #webcam #BackyardBirding #sunny #NewJersey > > > > @crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work