If you think Trump will protect your democratic rights, tHeN yOu HaVeN't DoNe YoUr ReSeArCh!
Apparently the port is optional but it makes me wonder what you would do if it wasn't installed. Luckily it was there on all three of the machines I picked up from ebay.
No worries, glad to help. I don't print a lot with my machine any more, but things still come up (like I got a shop press a couple weeks ago and found a knob for the release valve so you don't need a special tool for it ... printed with no trouble and now the printer sits idle again).
You may be interested in these links, it can reduce or eliminate the problems which require cold pulls. Basically the issue is that the tubing moves up and down during printing and creates a slack space where the filament gets into a region of the nozzle it's not supposed to reach. This modification uses a short length of tubing inside the nozzle that is pushed down tight, then your regular tubing sits on top of that where the movement doesn't cause any problems. I've never had a single clogged nozzle or needed to do a cold pull in several years since making this change, so I highly recommend it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4220059
You never know. Old filament CAN be used, but it takes special care with the slicer settings and it helps a lot if you have a dehumidifier to dry it out. I live in a dry climate, and have filament at work which has been sitting on the shelf for about 7 years, but I can still get beautiful prints out of it. All of my filament at home is left in ziplock bags but it still gets brittle over time (if you can easily snap the filament, it probably has a lot of moisture in it).
I wonder if this is a matter of countries refusing to choose a side (by not recognizing new countries), or if they ARE choosing to side with the aggressive countries?
Seems like a lot of shitty countries are trying to make land-grabs all at once, with the goal being to wipe out the existing population. I figure it's only a matter of time before China starts trying to commit genocide on Taiwan, but Russia and Israel have already jumped into that pool.
Honestly at that point I would tear down the whole thing and use this video as a guide for reassembly. The most important thing to do is to make sure the framework is all squared up, otherwise all prints will suffer.
As for bed leveling... A lot of people think the paper test is all you need, but really that only gets you close enough to start leveling the bed. First thing is to tighten all the springs to within 1 turn of being closed, then adjust the Z switch so that the head homes to roughly that same height. After that you use the paper method to get the bed roughly level, then move on to live testing with a 5-point bed-leveling test print to dial it in. Ideally you want the nozzle gap to be about 75% of the nozzle size, so for a 0.20mm tip you would want a 0.15mm gap to get your print to stick.
As I mentioned to someone else, Creality's QC is garbage. My first glass bed had better adhesion than PEI and worked beautifully for a few years until the coating wore out. My second glass bed was trash, I never could get anything to stick to it without using hairspray, and now it sits in its box. I have a PEI bed now, which seems to have solved the problem. If you decide to try using the printer again, don't forget to clean the glass with 90% ISO. Worst case try flipping the glass over to the smooth side, clean it with ISO, then use glue sticks on that surface (you won't get any adhesion on bare glass without the glue or hairspray).
Ah thanks for that! I can never remember PETG, probably because I've never used it myself.
OK so you want to watch this video and learn how to manually do bed leveling. However if you really want to go over the whole machine (perhaps even tearing it down and rebuilding it so you know where everything is an can assure that it was assembled correctly) the you want to start with this video.
Once the machine is set up, it's time to install slicing software on your computer. Cura is a popular and free option, with support built in for the Ender 3 (you have to set up a new machine in the software and tell it what model you have). Following that, find something to print! There are many sites like thingiverse where you can download models from, but you want to start with something small to work out the bugs without wasting a lot of filament. Look for something like a calibration cube ("calicat" is my favorite) which will provide information on how well you have your machine set up.
Also to consider... if you live in a humid environment and you were given filament with the printer that is NOT in a sealed bag, you should be aware that filament absorbs moisture from the air and "wet" filament will print like hot garbage. Insanely cheap filament like the $12 stuff you find on Amazon can also cause problems, so stick with stuff more in the $20 range until you have some experience in working with your machine.
One thing I learned is that Creality's QC is absolute garbage. When I first got my printer I also picked up a glass plate. Everything stuck perfectly to it, hardly any fuss at all. After several years the coating wore out and I bought a new one. Total trash, nothing would stick without heavy usage of hair spray and I eventually gave up on it.
If you want to try again, look for PEI beds. If you have one with the magnetic base, there are several with the PEI already mounted on a spring-steel plate. PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off... but I've used regular PLA, PLA+, and TPU with great success, and have heard that ABS also works well on it. Just keep it clean with 90% ISO and you'll eliminate at least one problem.
Of course there's also the whole thing with bed leveling. I run into a lot of people who think the paper method is the whole process for leveling, when really it's just to get your printer dialed in close enough that you don't ruin the bed when you actually begin to do the leveling. Getting the leveling wrong is by far the most common reason why prints don't stick well so do your best to nail that aspect. You want the nozzle gap about 3/4 of the nozzle size, so for a standard 0.20mm nozzle you would want a gap of about 0.15mm for your first layer (but still use 0.20 in the slicer) to get that proper smoosh. My leveling method involves using a 5-point bed-leveling test print, and you can judge the gap by eye from that. Takes quite a few iterations to get all the corners dialed in, but you shouldn't have to do it often.
Speaking of which... another common complaint is the loose bed springs. You want to Crank those puppies down almost completely closed, then adjust the Z switch to that new position before starting the leveling. Tight springs means you almost never have to readjust the leveling knobs. I check mine about once a year.
I bitched at someone on reddit about that once... Asked a similar common question and so I asked them if they even bothered LOOKING at the sub before they posted because that exact question had already been asked three times that day! There's being lazy, and then there's crap like this.
Two printers were fighting for the same bed (one with black filament and one with white). Obviously the black printer won and finished the print perfectly.
People give the Ender 3 a bad rap all the time, but it's honestly a great little machine. I far prefer it to the $2500 printer we have at work that has "automatic everything" and can't easily be adjusted to manually correct its bad settings.
With that said, how far have you gotten with it? Do you have any software installed? Have you tried printing anything (and was it successful)? You didn't give much clue as to where you're stuck. Yes you need to take some time to learn how to fine-tune the settings, and yes it can be frustrating because there is SO MUCH to learn about 3D printing, but once you get over the hump you can start cranking out all kinds of fun things.
Back in the days when people still had floppies and cd drives in their computers, yeah things were dead-simple. You pop in a disk, format the hard drive, and walk away while the process completes. I miss that. The machines I've worked on in probably the last decade, it seems like I have to fight against the hardware every time I want to wipe the system or replace a failed drive. The last set of servers I got, I couldn't figure out why the linux image (with full EFI settings) refused to even boot up properly. Turns out Dell had made these machines so you could easily boot a Windows installer from any of the external USB ports, but to install linux you had to use a hidden internal USB port. Once I found out about that then yeah the installation went as planned, but this is the kind of BS I'm referring to about manufacturers trying to prevent users from getting rid of Windows.
Taiwan is not recognized by most countries.
Damn, they're not? I thought I had heard otherwise. That's a real shame, people should have the right to govern themselves they way they desire.
Just curious, but have you ever tried installing Windows from scratch on a new computer? I'm just wondering if your comparison of "simpler" is the same installation of both operating systems, or if you're comparing something that somebody else set up for you to something you're doing yourself?
And yeah, it DID used to be dead simple... throw in an installation media and boot up the machine. These days there's so much garbage in the way that they're complicated the whole process without much gain.
Don't feel bad, that's a shitty process even for those of us in IT. Sometimes it doesn't work for certain models of memory sticks, sometimes something on the computer gets in the way of booting to the drive. I recently worked on some servers where I had to disable EFI, grab a 15 year old installer to get linux booted up on it, then switch to the newer installer to complete the process. So far Dell has been the worst (but also the most frequently used) I've had trouble with for getting linux installed. Unfortunately the solutions usually involve combinations of disabling EFI, changing the hard drive to a different mode, or even changing what mode the memory stick is booted with (all selected from within the BIOS at boot time), and it's not always the same process even for the same release of a machine.
It's not you, it's Microsoft working with the manufacturers to make it difficult for people to switch.
Want to see shit really hit the fan? Imagine if Taiwan applied for NATO membership. They are already recognized by most countries as an independent entity and I assume are aligned with many Western goals since they conduct joint military exercises with the US, but China would go crazy over attempts at NATO membership.
Makes me wonder if there are are any rules to prevent acceptance if a country is attacked because of asking to join? Like I know Ukraine can't join right now because they're already at war (despite whatever Russia wants to call it), but I think Taiwan is not officially at war with anyone.
I'll just add that nearly all linux distributions have a package manager you can access from the desktop. Simply open it up, find the software you want, and click to install. Not much different than going to the play store and installing an android app. The only time you need to do anything different is if you're trying to install some obscure software that isn't directly supported by your linux distribution, then you might have to resort to the command line.
Marjorie Taylor Greene, the bastion of factual information, has once again shown the nature of her character by claiming that peaceful protestors at the Capitol are in fact an "insurrection of terrorists". Don't you see all the violence and mayhem being caused in this video clip? No, me either...
If you want to make such bold comparisons, lets start out by checking how many people are running for their lives or the number of deaths involved between these two events. Or maybe we should be asking why MTG thought it was an "honor" to meet with the people responsible for murder and the attempt to destroy our democracy?
I have an annoying problem on my server and google has been of no help. I have two drives mirrored for the OS through mdadm, and I recently replaced them with larger versions through the normal process of replacing one at a time and letting the new drive re-sync, then growing the raids in place. Everything is working as expected, with the exception of systemd... It is filling my logs with messages of timing out while trying to locate both of the old drives that no longer exist. Mdadm itself is perfectly happy with the new storage space and has reported no issues, and since this is a server I can't just blindly reboot it to get systemd to shut the hell up.
So what's the solution here? What can I do to make this error message go away? Thanks.
[Update] Thanks to everyone who made suggestions below, it looks like I finally found the solution in systemctl daemon-reload however there is a lot of other great info provided to help with troubleshooting. I'm still trying to learn the systemd stuff so this has all been greatly appreciated!
The Saturday, Oct. 14, 2023, annular solar eclipse will cross North, Central, and South America. It will be visible in parts of the United States, Mexico, and many countries in South and Central America.
Just in case there are others like myself who rarely check reddit any more, I thought it would be helpful to cross-post this. It won't look like much unless you have the solar eclipse glasses, but I plan to break out my tracker and camera (with solar filters!) to try and get some pics.
I've spent the past day working on my newest Poweredge R620 acquisition, and trying to nail down what things I can do without checking. Google has shown me that everyone seems to be having similar issues regardless of brand or model. Gone are the days when a rack server could be fully booted in 90 seconds. A big part of my frustration has been when the USB memory sticks are inserted to get firmware updated before I put this machine in production, easily driving times up to 15-20 minutes just to get to the point where I find out if I have the right combination of BIOS/EUFI boot parameters for each individual drive image.
I currently have this machine down to 6:15 before it starts booting the OS, and a good deal of that time is spent sitting here watching it at the beginning, where it says it's testing memory but in fact hasn't actually started that process yet. It's a mystery what exactly it's even doing.
At this point I've turned off the lifecycle controller scanning for new hardware, no boot processes on the internal SATA or PCI ports, or from the NICs, memory testing disabled... and I've run out of leads. I don't really see anything else available to turn off sensors and such. I mean it's going to be a fixed server running a bunch of VMs so there's no need for additional cards although some day I may increase the RAM, so I don't really need it to scan for future changes at every boot.
Anyway, this all got me thinking... it might be fun to compare notes and see what others have done to improve their boot times, especially if you're also balancing your power usage (since I've read that allowing full CPU power during POST can have a small effect on the time). I'm sure different brands will have different specific techniques, but maybe there's some common areas we can all take advantage of? And sure, ideally our machines would never need to reboot, but many people run machines at home only while being used and deal with this issue daily, or want to get back online as quickly as possible after a power outage, so anything helps...
I have been struggling with this for over a month and still keep running into a brick wall. I am building a new firewall which has six network interfaces, and want to rename them to a known order (wan[0-1], and eth[0-3]). Since Bullseye has stopped honoring udev rules, I have created link files under /etc/systemd/network/ for each interface based on their MAC address. The two WAN interfaces seem to be working reliably but they're not actually plugged into anything yet (this may be an important but untested distinction).
What I've found is that I might get the interfaces renamed correctly when logging in from the keyboard, and this continues to work for multiple reboots. However if I SSH into the machine (which of course is my standard method of working on my servers) it seems to destroy systemd's ability to rename the interface on the next boot. I have played around with the order of the link file numbers to ensure the renumbering doesn't have the devices trying to step on each other, but to no avail. Fixing this problem seems to come down to three different solutions...
- I can simply
touchthe eth*.link files and I'm back up afte a reboot. - Sometimes I have to get more drastic, actually opening and saving each of the files (without making any changes). WHY these two methods give me different results, I cannot say.
- When nothing else works, I simply rename one or more of the eth*.link files, giving them a different numerical order. So far it doesn't seem to matter which of the files I rename, but systemd sees that something has changed and re-reads them.
Another piece of information I ran across is that systemd does the interface renaming very early in the boot process, even before the filesystems are mounted, and that you need to run update-initramfs -u to create a new initrd.img file for grub. OK, sounds reasonable... however I would expect the boot behavior to be identical every time I reboot the machine, and not randomly stop working after I sign in remotely. I've also found that generating a new initrd.img does no good unless I also touch or change the link files first, so perhaps this is a false lead.
This behavior just completely baffles me. Renaming interfaces based on MAC addresses should be an extremely simple task, and yet systemd is completely failing unless I change the link files every time I remote connect? Surely someone must have found a reliable way to change multiple interface names in the years since Bullseye was released?
Sorry, I know this is a rant against systemd and this whole "predictable" naming scheme, but all of this stuff worked just fine for the last 24 years that I've been running linux servers, it's not something that should require any effort at all to set up. What do I need to change so that systemd does what it is configured to do, and why is something as simple as a remote connection enough to completely break it when I do get it to work? Please help save my sanity!
(I realize essential details are missing, but this post is already way too long -- ask what you need and I shall provide!)
tl;dr -- Systemd fails to rename network interfaces on the next cycle if I SSH in and type 'reboot'
Your dreams and imagination evolved as a view into another universe. As with the current beliefs, you cannot decipher technical information -- no words in books, no details of how devices work, so even if you can describe things you see from another place, you could not reproduce a working version.
Now how do you convince others that the things your are seeing are really happening without being labeled insane? And how could you use this information to benefit yourself or others? Take a peek into the multiverse to see how other versions of yourself have solved these problems...
I have a self-hosted matrix-synapse server up and running on a Debian linux server, but before I open it up I want to at least get a captcha service in place to reduce spamming. The only module I've seen to handle this function appears to require setting up a Google recaptcha though, however I would prefer to keep all of this entirely self-contained for the privacy of my users. Can anyone recommend a module that allows for a local captcha option? For that matter, can anyone also recommend a captcha system that is pretty straightforward to set up (which is compatible with matrix-synapse) and uses basic preinstalled code bases like perl or python?
And while I'm here, I would also like to provide the option of registering with an email address, but I'm having trouble finding any clear how-to pages on this. Seems like that function might be built directly in to matrix-synapse but I'm just not finding anything helpful. Any suggestions?
I'm fairly new to matrix in general, but I have an initial setup running with the homeserver, Element web page, and an IRC bridge, so if I can just nail down the validation part of registrations I'll have what I think is a good starting point to launch from.
I was reading another article which discussed taking measurements of distance stars at 6-month intervals to create a 3D map of their relative positions and direction of movement. This got me to thinking... has anyone proposed 'dropping' stationary satellites outside of Earth's orbital path for continuous monitoring even when our planet is no longer in that spot? It seems like such an arrangement could provide constant monitoring of things that are happening on the far side of the sun, and they could each act as a relay to each other, bringing the signals back around where we could receive them.
It could be fascinating to be able to constantly monitor the path of know comets, or perhaps even to detect large meteors which are safely away from us now but might some day pose a threat. Studies like mapping star positions could rapidly expand with the availability of continuous data feeds, and I'm sure if such a tool were available scientists would come up with a host of new experiments to try.
A couple other things also come to mind. First off is radio telescopes, which can gather more sensitive data by having sensors further apart. Of course in this case they would only be able to peer in two directions unless you set up the array to rotate as a singular ring (which greatly increases the complexity). The other idea was that I know some phenomena are so large that it takes a huge array of telescopes or sensors to even detect them, and something this large could detect truly astounding low frequency events. Throw in some gravity detectors and watch as the waves propagate through our solar system.
I'm just thinking there's a lot of possibilities here and a lot more data could be collected if we could drop four or eight satellites along the way. I would assume the idea has been proposed before, I just didn't know if this is even feasible?
Turns out both grow in my area, and look identical to this when young. Yikes! So based on a post yesterday, I took this outside and sliced it in half. So far it looks promising (I think?) and I'm not dead yet.
This was found growing in a Colorado yard near the base of an elm tree, in an area where there are also rotting cottonwood roots. Altitude is right at 5000 feet. It wasn't my yard so I'm not sure how many days it may have been growing before I picked it today. I have put both halves in the fridge for now, is there any other information I can provide to help identify it?
A full size copy of the inside can be viewed here: http://sourpuss.net/projects/mycology/2023-08-13/IMG_7239.JPG
I've been running systems up to Buster and have always had the 'quiet' option in the grub settings to show the regular service startup messages (the colored ones showing [ok] and such but not all the dmesg stuff). I just upgraded a server to bullseye and there are zero messages being displayed now except an immediate message about not being able to use IRQ 0. Worse, google can't seem to find any information on this. If I remove the quiet option from grub then I see those service messages again, along with all the other stuff I don't need.
What is broken and how do I fix this issue? I assumed it would be safe to upgrade by now but this seems like a pretty big problem if I ever need to troubleshoot a system.
[Edit] In case anyone else finds this post searching for the same issue… Apparently the trick is that now you MUST install plymouth, even on systems that do not have a desktop environment. For whatever reason plymouth has taken over the job of displaying the text startup messages now. Keep your same grub boot parameters (quiet by itself, without the splash option) and you will get the old format of startup messages showing once again. It’s been working fine the old way for 20+ years but hey let’s change something just for the sake of confusing everyone.
[Edit 2] Thanks to marvin below, I now have a final solution that no longer requires plymouth to be installed. Edit /etc/default/grub and add systemd.show_status=true to GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT. In my case to full line is:
GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet systemd.show_status=true"
Don't forget to run update-grub after you save your changes.
I run my own email server, and a friend received a compromised laptop from work which resulted in a spam attack from Russia yesterday. Turtle settings saved the days with thousands of emails still in the queue when I saw the problem, however it made me realize that everyone with accounts on my server are local, do not travel, and have no requirement to send emails from outside the country.
I found how to use the smtpd_discard_ehlo_keyword_address_maps setting in postfix to block a CIDR list of IPs, then found a maintained list of IPs by country codes on github. Cool so far, and a script to keep my local list updated was easy enough.
Now the question is, what countries should I be blocking? There are plenty of lists of the top hacking sources, but it's hard to block #2 (the US) when that's where I am located. But otherwise, does anyone have a list of countries they outright block from logging on to their servers? From the above google searches I have 17 countries blocked so far, and in the first 30 minutes already stopped login attempts from three of those countries, so it appears to be working.
Of course I could write a script to parse my logs to see who has already made attempts, but that's what services like fail2ban are for, and I'm just wondering if there are any countries in particular I should directly block? My list so far includes the following: ae bg br cn de hk id in ir iq il kp ng ru sa th vn
The question itself may not be that interesting, but I thought at the very least some folks might be interested in my experience and think about doing something similar themselves. I can post more details of what I did if there is any interest.
First pics of my first pins. I cut slits in the bag on Sunday and saw the first pins appear yesterday morning, now they're growing fast. This clump is already a full inch (25mm) tall, and I have four openings in the bag that are all pinning. I've been misting them a couple times a day but now I'll be working from home until next Monday so I can try to spray them more often.
For anyone who hasn't seen my previous posts, I started out with a very small sample of spawn from ebay just over two months ago. I expanded that out in jars of rye berries and popcorn kernels, and then on July 4th I split a jar between two fruiting bags with pasteurized straw (I also have two bags of blue oysters and opened one of those on Sunday, but no pins from it yet).
This is my first time trying to grow mushrooms so I've been researching and asking questions every step of the way, but so far so good! I also have never tasted oysters before so that will be a new experience too. Now I just have to temper my impatience until it's time to harvest...
[Update] Adding a second pic this morning. This is about 12 hours later and they've grown significantly again. For reference, the bag is about the size of a sheet of paper.
[2nd update] It's been five days now since I opened the bag for fruiting. Here's a pic of what the mushrooms currently look like. As far as what I've read, I expected them to get MUCH larger than this, but with the upturned caps I really believe these are done growing and should have been harvested yesterday (note this image shows the largest clump of the group). Any thoughts?
My first oyster pins appeared today and I've been thinking about humidity control. I have this big tub I made my still air box from and I've been wondering about using it to hold the two fruiting bags I have. I was concerned that maybe the X slices wouldn't get enough fresh air if I covered them, but then I've been worried about keeping up the humidity. Now that I'm seeing some pinning though I'm feeling like the humidity is more important? I live in Colorado, which isn't quite desert but the humidity in the house typically drops below 40% during the day (it's high right now because we've been getting some rain showers).
For reference, my SAB is a typical DIY, made from a large tub with just a couple hand-sized holes cut out. There's not a lot of airflow in that room anyway, and I'm not sure how much fresh air the mushrooms need once they start growing. Of course I realize they won't be able to stay in the SAB too long, I know they'll outgrow the available space, but I'm just thinking for the next few days, or however long it takes them to really fill in.
So, any thought on this? Should I close them up in the box or just leave them in open air?
I have Openfire set up with the monitoring service plugin which we have been using with Pidgin on the desktop. One of the things I've noticed is that when I sign in to another computer on the same account, I do not get a history of recent messages (which I thought the monitoring plugin was supposed to provide).
The other thing that doesn't seem to be working right is when I am logged in to two computers simultaneously (using the same account). I expect to see chat messages showing up on BOTH devices so I can go between machines, which again is something I thought the monitoring plug was supposed to provide.
The settings I believe are related are under "Offline messages" which I have set to always store, and retain for up to 30 days. Should I bee looking for anything else?
I have been using Pidgin with XMPP on Google for years, so I know both the XMPP protocol and the Pidgin client are capable of handling this functionality. I've been digging around trying to find a solution, and see a lot of things claiming Pidgin is the culprit here, but those messages are a decade old. I can't seem to find any information on the subject for Openfire newer than about 2016.
I'm hoping there's a setting I need to change or another plugin I need to add to get both of these features working on my server? I really love the software otherwise but this seems like a really basic function that should just work, and I am hoping someone can point me to whatever I'm missing.
So my two bags of pink oysters, which haven't appeared to be doing much on anything, have suddenly pinned right behind the air vent on both bags. The first picture is a bunch of little guys like I expected it to start out as, but the second bag is one massive stem as wide as the cap! For reference, the air vent patch black clicks on these bags are about 1.25" wide.
Did I do something wrong in sealing the top of the bags, or is it common to see this happen right behind the vent? Maybe I put too much straw in the bags? It's hard to see in the pictures, but they seem pretty healthy, however there has been VERY little mycelial growth in these bags so far and it seems premature to start opening them up. Any suggestions?
The Chinese consulate general in Odesa was hit by Russian missiles on July 20 following the Kremlin’s pull-out from the deal that provides Ukrainian grain to hundreds of millions of Asians.
In addition to damage at the port terminal where grain for China was stored, a second attack has now resulted in damage to the Chinese consulate.
I have some pink spawn which was being expanded out in jars of rye berries and popcorn kernels. There's been good growth and since a couple weeks ago the jar appeared to be completely colonized (at which time I left one jar sitting and moved another jar to a couple fruiting bags). It's been sitting on the basement floor since then, but I've noticed some pink coloration that seems to have gone throughout the jar, and there seems to be a bit of the pink also in the fruiting bags.
I prepared some jars of blue oyster spawn at the same time, using the same batch of rye and popcorn, and those jars are still snow white. This has me wondering, could I have possibly gotten contamination ONLY in the pink oyster jars while all of the blue oyster jars somehow escaped contamination? Or is this pink color natural for pink oysters? It just seems like an awful big coincidence that only the pink oysters would get contaminated when everything was prepped together in the still-air box and there was definitely cross-exposure between the jars.
Since this is my first batch of oysters I'm just not sure what I should be expecting.
At the suggestion of another member I tried expanding my spawn on popcorn kernels. This involved boiling for about 20 minutes, drying, then pressure-canning for 90 minutes at 15psi. After cooling my spawn was divided between the jars, which were allowed to grow for a little over two weeks. On Monday I transferred the contents of a couple jars to fruiting bags with pasteurized straw and started seeing growth by the next day. I thought all was well.
On Wednesday, I started noticing some green stems. As I've been watching, this is actually growth from the popcorn kernels, and it's happening in all four bags! Now I'm quite frankly amazed that the cheapest generic popcorn from the store even has the capability to sprout, but after I put it through all that cooking I would have assumed it simply wasn't possible. I also wonder why it didn't start trying to grow in the original jar, and why it waited until it was in the bags?
So is there anything I should do about this? It will probably be at least another couple weeks before the mycelium is grown out enough to open some air holes for fruiting and I'm worried the corn will be trying to create its own holes before then, but maybe the bag is tougher than it looks. Anyway, any suggestions other than letting it go and waiting to see what happens?
tl;dr: Spawn grown on popcorn kernels, now popcorn is sprouting despite extensive cooking.
[Update] It's NOT the popcorn, there were other seeds in the straw!
I've lost track now of how long since I started on this, but I think it's been 2-3 weeks since I transferred my original spawn to grain jars? All of the jars have been fully colonized except for one jar of pink oysters, which fought against some kind of contamination but seems to have gotten going again. It had some good looking growth though, so I decided to use that jar plus one jar of blue oysters (but grown on popcorn kernels) for my first attempt at fruiting. If it is too weak and fails, well if was worth a shot and I wouldn't have gotten anything else from it anyway.
I'm using some 8" fruiting bags from ebay, and pasteurized chopped straw in a lime water bath overnight then let it drain today for about 2.5 hours. Each quart jar of spawn was split between two fruiting bags.
Now here comes the scary part... I didn't have room inside to work on this, and knew working with the straw was going to be very messy, so I set up a table in the yard. I wiped everything down with 91% ISO as I went, but being outside has me worried about the chances of contam. Guess we'll see?
So now I have four stuffed fruiting bags hanging out in the garage where it will be a little warmer than the basement. I had considered putting the bags in my garden but I'm worried about squirrels and such getting into them (especially when they start to fruit) so I figured the garage was safer. I'm expecting another 2-3 weeks of expansion before they're ready to fruit, but it's just a game of wait&see now. And assuming I get some mushrooms from this batch, I can bring it back full-circle and start a new batch of spawn (this time directly in the grain jars) from what grows.
One question I have for everyone... I have three more jars of spawn that are pretty well completely grown in (one popcorn and two rye berries). Should I put these in the refrigerator until I'm ready to transfer them to fruiting bags? I'm not sure how long they can survive at room temperature but I seem to recall they can hang out in the fridge for 3-4 months without any problem?
Usually we see some potholes at the end of the snow season which get repaired fairly quickly... but this year... oh boy. Seems like they didn't start showing up until all the rain hit, and then they were everywhere, and so far I've seen very few getting fixed (and some that were fixed have opened up again).
My SUV has been pulling hard to the right the last few weeks. I finally got a chance to jack it up today, checked the wheel bearings and A-frames as the common culprits. Instead what I found is the lower A-frame has actually been pulled over on one side by nearly 1/2". I moved it back to roughly where it's supposed to be so I'm not tearing up my tire until I can get in for a proper alignment, but sheesh, could we maybe get some crews out to start patching the worst of the potholes at least? Usually our fair city is so quick on getting these things fixed!
A person with way too many hobbies, but I still continue to learn new things.