IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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125

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Joined

2 yr. ago

Thanks for the tip, I will look into this the next go-round!

Printers are a lot easier and more repeatable than they were 12 years ago. In FDM the big advances are print speed, quality of life, and filament material. Home SLA printers are also a lot more available than they were 12 years ago, but the overall process here hasn't changed (print, rinse, cure). The big question is if/when SLS will make it to a home user price point.

My prints are mostly self designed and functional. I'll have to dig up some examples once I'm on a computer.

The form factor kind of reminds me of my old EC4SW, which is a 2x18650 side by side flashlight with a Cree MT-G2 (big LED, pretty dated by today's standards).

How is the beam shape? The EC4SW is pretty floody for a reflector based light, which I personally prefer.

It was probably an EC4 if you're really thinking of a nitecore. I have an EC4SW and still love/use it.

Agree. They also made a post about getting back and their neighbor for making noises at 5am (early, sure) about an hour ago.

It really is amusing how not-flat glass windows actually are. If I ever take the sunset version of this photo there will be no tower, but that might actually be a loss for the photo.

Edit: this is not the look I was going for originally, but I can see why it might be interesting.

/Edit

Another reason not to like the photo, lol. More reflection of the sun coming up would make it more obvious that there's a building there. That's actually where the idea originally came from: a darker sky behind a building with a bright sunset.

I've dabbled in both automotive work and home renovation. Anyone who can do auto body work or interior finishing work well deserves way more credit than they usually get, so big kudos. I am pretty solid at the mechanical bits, but when it comes to finishing/painting things are a lot more difficult for me.

Print finishing is something I've thought about a few times now, but most of my prints are functional and live a pretty hard life. A bit of texture from layer lines and other imperfections is the least of their concerns. That said, I have sanded ASA some and it sands amazingly well. I could see getting it pretty smooth without too much effort and then either using a solvent based or finishing based method. Of course, if your print has a lot of fine detail this is going to be a massive PITA.

You can totally build a Voron anyway! I suggest magnetic panels, which makes popping the top super easy if you want to print PLA. I've run PLA, PETG, TPU, and ASA through mine. I have an under bed carbon filter that does a pretty good job with fumes.

Agree on bike parts being a good print test bed. I'm impressed that anything held up with pedal loads, there's a lot of force there.

My main motive for sticking with ASA is its easily attainable high volumetric flow. I can easily swing 30 mm^3/s on my Rapido without having to jack up temps. Between this, Core-XY motion, and input shaping prints are way faster than my old i3 clone. PETG is quite a bit slower. PLA can be fast, but it's also somewhat brittle.

Makes a huge difference with my junky TPU if it is dry or not

I am happy to have gotten lucky with Overture 95A!

ASA/ABS

I design my own prints too, but I also have a 350mm x 350mm bed. My bed size has lead to some fairly large prints. My printer is a Voron and I originally built it with the stock acrylic enclosure. This was fine for smaller parts (say 150-175 mm and smaller), but despite keeping keeping corners rounded and avoiding rapid shape transitions I still had some prints pull themselves apart or pull the print bed up. Even on cylindrical and rounded rectangle prints, without a solid top or bottom. It wasn't until I insulated my Voron that I was able to pull these larger prints off with a chamber temp of around 58 C.

Maybe I should try another material as so far I've been sticking with polymaker ASA because it's cheap and prints decently. What are you using?

I am a Darktable user and really like it. That said, my workflow is:

• get photos off camera
• cull. I'm using photo mechanic right now, but if I can find an option that lets you sort my the largest in focus face I'm tempted to switch to something else. I shoot some kids sports and want to make sure I get a few good photos of each kid
• move the creme de la creme to their own folder
• add that folder to Darktable as it's own thing
• edit as necessary in Darktable

I've never tried culling with Darktable. Photo mechanic lets you fly through photos using 1-8 to grade photos. At this point my first pass is to find the "this is a decent photo" shots and my second pass is usually just to pare that down. I've given after shoot a go, and while I can see why a pro would use it (volume), I prefer manually culling with the exception of the kids sports scenario I hit on earlier.

That enclosure might work for smaller ASA prints, but I needed a lot more insulation than a garbage bag to pull off larger prints.

Maybe I got lucky with TPU, but I didn't run into any significant issues with humidity when I printed treads for wagon wheels over the course of two or three days.

TPU will be nearly impossible for your kiddo to destroy. ASA/ABS are rugged, but if your print has thin surfaces it's less strong in my experience than PETG.

I didn't find TPU hard to print personally, just go slow and turn retraction way down or completely off. It will string pretty good, but most slicers have a setting to avoid crossing perimeters that will keep it in check. The only thing I would be wary of is ending up with a floppy print, so make sure the part has some structure.

For smaller prints, agree. For larger prints a cardboard box will do just fine, but it needs a little something in my experience. Not too much mind you.

I'm glad you found the idea helpful!

Shooting wide open can be the right call and doesn't always mean shallow depth of field. As a general rule of thumb, the more your subject fills the frame the less of it will be in critical focus.

There are two ways of blowing out the background: getting up close and personal with a wider lens or using a telephoto and zooming. The further away you are the less fast your lens has to be assuming you're able to fill the frame to the same extent.

Conversely, less your subject fills your frame the more depth of field you'll have. That's how you can shoot with say a 35mm f/1.4 focused on something 10 feet / 3 meters away and get tons of depth of field.

I should really start composing with intention

Step one is having an eye for things that are interesting. Step 2 is working on composition. the fact that you're thinking about either is a great first step!

You should totally post something!

I have some things I want to post, just need to take the time to do it. Maybe tonight.

I made a bad choice and it's time to cut my losses

You've received some good replies on this question, but I think there's also another question at play: an offshoot of identity politics. Many people wrap their personal identity around things. If you question the thing, or put restrictions on it, people take it as an attack on their persona since the thing and their person are so interwoven. You can see this with things like guns, vehicles (motorcycles, car vs truck, auto vs manual, brand x vs brand y), video game consoles, physical media, etc.

I has an itch!

Two pieces of feedback.

First, please include your exposure (shutter speed, aperture, ISO) with your posts if you're interested in feedback. This information can help us understand lighting conditions and offer better feedback.

Second, I find the shallow depth of field unnecessary for this shot. Shallow depth of field is useful to highlight something important about your subject, but in this case your subject is pretty uniform so the whole thing seems like it should be in focus. I personally find the shallow depth of field detrimental to this shot.

Thanks, as always, for sharing! I should post something tomorrow...

Will do, thanks! I totally get having the tweaks in your head or written into the family recipe book with a pen. Our better homes cookbook has tons of notes/tweaks written into it now.

I am simply advocating for shoes that fit your feet. 99% of shoes tend to pretend like your longest toe is your middle toe. I've always found this weird.

This seems pretty close to what you described: https://www.chefkoch.de/rezepte/166041072019596/Suesse-Quarkkloesse.html

It sounds good / I'm thinking about giving them a go. If you find a better recipe let me know.