IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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2 yr. ago

I tend to stick with the 1/focal length rule of thumb. OP was shooting at 18mm, granted on an APS-C body, so they're a little over 1/20. I've taken sharp photos of people this slow hand held, but I would be lying if I said they were all sharp.

I totally agree with the sentiment though - the exposure triangle is all about tradeoffs and I would have personally made a different set of tradeoffs in this case. Opening to f/5.6 would give OP 3 stops of light to play with. They could reduce ISO or increase shutter speed by a factor of 8 or reduce/increase one by a factor of 2 and the other by a factor of 4.

Most of the kits on both sites are going to be pretty solid. You'll be able to find reviews for most of them, as well as a bunch of forums like audio karma and what not.

As for cost/benefit of DIY speakers, DIY speakers that are well designed will punch well above their BOM cost (eg a $300 to build diy speaker will generally outperform a $300 retail speaker). But if you have a pair of decent hifi speakers already it might not be worth the dive. Most commercial speakers tune for a "house sound" so switching brands can be a bit off-putting at first. Let's just say that burn in is a two way road and part of that road is your ear acclimating to the sound profit of the speaker.

I leave my camera on auto ISO also, but j try to keep an eye on the value the camera chooses and will adjust exposure if it makes sense. Ultimately, exposure is a bunch of tradeoffs, so a higher ISO might be the right case in some scenarios.

Thanks for taking the time to type out that reply, it packed a ton of information. I think you're under selling the eye and the technique necessary to sand well. I've done some DIY auto-body and paint work and I really struggled to know when I had sanded well enough. Yeah, I knew I needed to sand more, but I had no idea where to focus my efforts and couldn't easily distinguish a high spot that needed to get knocked down vs low spot that needed to get filled. Building that skill to the point of it being intuitive seems like something that would take a decent amount of practice or a great coach.

I hadn't considered polishing ASA. I'm somewhat tempted to give it a go. The hardest thing for me would be figuring out how to sand large curved surface in such a way that doesn't result in lots of obvious flat spots. I can absolutely see sanding/polishing making prints a bit stronger.

I'm sorry to hear about your physical condition and wish you as much additional recovery as possible. I totally get having very limited time with two younger kids in my house. I think all in the build took 4-5 months starting from printing parts, ordering a kit, and finishing assembly. Even though my kids are not new to me anymore, I don't know that I've fully come to grips with the fact that I can't complete projects as quickly as I once could and I should probably slow down my rate of project accumulation.

No problem! If you're already designing speakers, printing vs making them out of something else will come down to your CAD skills/speed vs how long it would take you to make a finished enclosure out of a different material like wood.

I wouldn't call anything about the process hard, but it can be a bit time consuming if you're not a CAD ninja already. Either way, doing this will probably improve your CAD skills.

If you've never designed a speaker before, you could purchase a kit for one of the many DIY speakers out there and print the enclosure. My first DIY bluetooth speaker was an Overnight Sensation MTM stuffed in a very undersized, and ported, wood enclosure with a built in bluetooth board, basic BMS, and amplifier. Parts-Express, Madisound, and a number of players make getting a complete DIY kit easy.

I'll take a stab at the colors: slicers are very good at consistent extrusion widths. They do the best they can with varying width, but rarely nail it the first time. The only thing you can really do is fiddle with print settings or change the design to have consistent width extrusions, but that will obviously impact the design. Even with consistent width extrusions you might have to fiddle with extrusion width to nail it.

As for your first layer, are you seeing different squish in different areas of your bed? If yes, are you using a bed mesh?

Grab a few of Ellis's first layer patches, spread them around your bed, and focus on getting them all to look the same.

Edit for link: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

Thanks for sharing! You got me to get something posted yesterday, I'll try to do so again tonight.

More unsolicited feedback!

The raw edit is good, especially for a first pass. Color perception is all... very subjective so don't shy away from going too nuts. The omelette also looks tasty!

This is the bit I wanted to comment on:

Exposure Settings: Aperture: f/14 Shutter Speed: 1/20s ISO: 3200 Focal Length: 18mm

Once you stop down past a certain point your lens will begin to lose sharpness and your end picture will be less sharp. It looks like that kicks in around f/11, so unless you need to stop down more I would try to avoid it.

I would try to keep ISO down, especially for a static subject. Doing so will introduce less noise, which results in a sharper image if you find yourself processing the noise out. It will also give you more dynamic range, but I'm not sure that matters a ton in this shot.

So the suggestion: open your lens more. Just don't go too far otherwise you won't have your whole plate/pan of food in focus.

Using the first depth of field calculator returned by DDG and guessing your omelette was about a half meter from your camera you could have used an aperture of 5.6 or so to have a critically sharp depth of 16 cm, which is enough in this case if you manage to focus in the center of the omelette. It never hurts to take a few exposures at different apertures and then choose the one you like the most in post. The joys of shooting digitally.

Thanks! We all learn by trial and error, why not share our failures/learning opportunities for the benefit of ourselves (feedback!) and others (insight into the though process)?

Sorry for the delay. Yes, I did design it myself. I made a small post about it here that includes some frequency response curves. It sounds much better than the sun of its parts, which weren't that intentionally chosen, but it also makes it obvious how much DSP modern wireless speakers have - especially in the bottom octive. I personally like making things vs buying, so this is right up my alley. I will (eventually) get around to making an updated design with better components, but it's doing just fine so far.

The print itself have proven to be very resilient. It's been knocked off a counter and fallen to the floor more than once. It also frequently serves as a step stool.

Printed enclosures have a bad rap for not being "dead", but the rounded design without large flat surfaces is pretty dead. Yeah, the top and bottom aren't flat but they're not a uniform thickness to give them a bit more strength. The walls are "only" two perimeters, but the extrusion width was something like 0.8mm on a 0.6mm nozzle. I think the print has ~18% infill but it's been a while now.

Let me know if you would like any more information!

Thanks!

That's cool! I will have to dig up beam patterns, not that I really need another light...

Thankfully most of my shots that I don't get are usually a composition miss or flawed idea. Sometimes even both.

I've found I don't require a ton of gear anymore. Currently I have four primes and a telephoto to go along with an A9II. The primes are actually focal length pairs - two smaller/lighter versions and two bigger/faster versions

• Sigma Contemporary 35mm F2 DG DN. This is a great lens
• Sigma Art 35mm F1.4 DG HSM. This is the old version of the lens, but it's perfectly serviceable. It is a bit chunky though
• Sony 50mm FE 1.8. If you're a Sony shooter and don't have a 50mm prime you should grab this lens. It's very cheap new and used examples cost even less. It's also pretty compact/light. It might not be the absolute best lens, and it's focus motor is pretty loud, but it's a serviceable walk around
• Sony 50mm GM 1.4. This was my splurge
• Tamron's 150-500. Great for outdoor sports. My subjects are small (young) and the extra 100mm over Sony's 100-400 are worth "only" getting 15 FPS

The fast primes, combined with my 8 year old sensor, handle low light just fine. My shots are nearly all candid, so I don't find myself wanting for a flat

There are some shots I just can't get because I don't have the right gear, but I don't fret too much about those.

I am considering picking up a macro lens this spring since I've sold my OM-1 and enjoy taking bee photos. In the future I might pick up a 70-200 zoom, but that's not really a strong want right now.

Seeing some of these newer models that work right out the box make me excited! (Although building one yourself is always more fun if you’ve got the time)

You can have a bit of both! Build a Voron and wind up with a pretty darn reliable printer. I posted about mine here.

As promised earlier, here are some prints:

I remember looking at the TK35. Those two have a very similar form factor. I remember going for the Nitecore EC4SW because it was a floodier light.

You're right / glass half full!

Thanks for the tip, I will look into this the next go-round!

Printers are a lot easier and more repeatable than they were 12 years ago. In FDM the big advances are print speed, quality of life, and filament material. Home SLA printers are also a lot more available than they were 12 years ago, but the overall process here hasn't changed (print, rinse, cure). The big question is if/when SLS will make it to a home user price point.

My prints are mostly self designed and functional. I'll have to dig up some examples once I'm on a computer.

The form factor kind of reminds me of my old EC4SW, which is a 2x18650 side by side flashlight with a Cree MT-G2 (big LED, pretty dated by today's standards).

How is the beam shape? The EC4SW is pretty floody for a reflector based light, which I personally prefer.

It was probably an EC4 if you're really thinking of a nitecore. I have an EC4SW and still love/use it.

Agree. They also made a post about getting back and their neighbor for making noises at 5am (early, sure) about an hour ago.