Piracy: ꜱᴀɪʟ ᴛʜᴇ ʜɪɢʜ ꜱᴇᴀꜱ @lemmy.dbzer0.com the16bitgamer @lemmy.world 1 yr. ago

I am pouring one out to this little champ. Stripping HDCP and letting me... archive streaming services from 2016-2023 RIP

What killed it, well after reviewing some PS4 gameplay I noticed that it was having audio issues, like it would allow some sounds but not all. It was almost as if it was receiving a 5.1 audio output but was missing the centre channel. Even though the PS4 was set to stereo.

After trying various cables, configs, and boxes. I narrowed it down to this box. Not sure what killed it, whether it's just old, or that it's been powered on for over 5 years straight. But its long service will never be forgotten in the hours of Netflix and Disney Plus it passed through to my recorder.

93 comments

HDCP is so fucking dumb, I couldn't play Switch on my old projector because of it and it's absolutely useless in stopping anything from being pirated.
- I get and like HDCP. Mostly because of how easy it can be to bypass. I'd rather have a universal "we tried" standard, than an honest attempt to stop this. With today's tech and online focused DRM, HDCP could be a lot worse, and I am happy where it is right now.
  
  Like Adobe Digital Editions or Kindle for eBook DRM.
  
  That's the thing though: Ultimately, there is no stopping it with restrictive technology.
  
  The only real way to stop piracy is to offer a good service for a good price.
  
  I found a way to bypass one of those the other day for rented books found some tool on linux that did, so even that doesnt work
  
  Or Cinavia on PS3.
- Most anti-piracy measures are useless at stopping piracy.
  
  I fly a giant fucking pirate flag with skull and crossbones and no one ever stops me. All they do is say "Are you a pirate?" or "Say Jack Sparrow". Tcchh bitch please, I'll torrent your mom's prom night.
  
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- I use an Dell docking station with my laptop. Any webpage with Spotify embed turns off my external displays because somewhere along the line the video signal loses the DRM certification. It's infuriating.
I have the exact same splitter. Have been using it for Ambilight for the last, maybe, 5 years. It quit on me a couple of months ago.
Here's to it 🍻
- What brand?
  
  The exact same one as OP. Weirdly enough.
  
  It doesnt specify a brand on the plastic case.
I used to work as AV technician in a big corporation and had one of those that always saved my ass everytime someone with a MacBook wanted to do a presentation.
- Yup, same. For the unaware: Macs have always-on HDCP, and it doesn’t always work as intended.
  
  Lots of times, I’m trying to run a projector with a feed from the presenter’s laptop. Laptop is on stage, projector is in the tech booth. And the line in between the stage and the booth will complete the video signal, but not the HDCP handshake. So Windows machines will work fine, but Macs will just outright refuse to send anything.
  
  So yes, I keep an HDCP stripper handy, because whenever a client pulls a MacBook out I know I’m going to need it.
  
  I get why hdcp exists, but why the fuck would apple enable it permanently, for everything? They afraid of people pirating their own desktop or something?
  
  Ouch! Thankfully haven't run into this issue... either the display adapter I use has a HDCP stripper inside, or my Linux install isn't enforcing HDCP on my macbook
Pour one out for all the little unsung heroes that just get shit done for years. Looking at you cheap HDMI switcher on my desk.
- 07
Open it up and replace any electrolytic capacitors.
- No caps, all solid state!
  
  This is pedantic, but there are indeed capacitors there. They're all surface mount components, so they don't look like the caps that people typically talk about replacing, and they likely aren't what caused it to fail. Anything labeled on the board with a C## is likely a SMD capacitor.
  
  I see corrosion/deposits by those two leds and the hdmi.. rinse it with vinegar, then DI water, then 90% alcohol. See if that doesn't bring it back to life once it's fully dry. You also might have to reflow the solder though.
  
  Provided they don't explode first, ceramic capacitors tend to fail short circuit. If you have a multimeter, do continuity checks across all of them. In-circuit capacitance testing is very inaccurate, so that specific test is almost always moot. Continuity testing may help.
  
  Also, depending on the speed of the multimeter and the charge of the capacitor, it may briefly give you a tone and/or register as a short circuit. Capacitors can register as a short circuit very briefly until they get a slight charge.
  
  The diode at the top right is another easy thing to check. (D12 // SS34) if it's failed short, it will cause issues for you as well.
  
  I am not sure what the component is that is under the heatsink by the USB connector. Sometimes, you may have voltage regulators stepping down the USB 5V to 3.3V. Those are easy to replace as well. However, if it is a USB controller of some kind, you would have to reference the datasheet and test it somehow.
  
  Those are some simple checks you can do, anyway.
  
  Then replace the magic smoke.
  
  Dirty girl
  
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Bit of a tangent but: How dangerous is ripping and distributing web content these days? Like how prevalent is watermarking or other methods that could identify the account the recording originated from?
- Not sure about others, but I don't distribute the content I record or backup, outside of an offsite backup. For me my biggest concern is getting a clean copy for myself, and with certain fruity tablets and a mirrored screen it's good source to record from for my needs.
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You need to make the "you were the best" comic meme with this pasted in
No way to buy another? What's the part number? I'll help look.
- I already have one, not to worry. Plus they are easy to find on Amazon or eBay.
  
  Can you specify a brand at least?
I have had so many devices that went on long past their service life. Imma pour one out with you my friend.
Any chance you remember the brand or manufacturer so that I might look for one, for myself?
- No name brand, if you find one that looks like it, it'll work. Typical search terms are "hdmi splitter 1 in 2 out", any with EDI switches are busts, like the one from UGREEN.
  
  EDIT Also avoid any with buttons, this is a HDMI duplicator, as in 1 signal goes in, that signal get duplicated and sent out both ports. The ones with buttons switches inputs, so 1 HDMI in 1 HDMI out, the button just chooses which HDMI is being used. Great for monitors with only 1 HDMI input.
  
  Last question if I may, what recorder did/are you using in tandem with this splitter?
- This article
  
  https://www.howtogeek.com/208917/htg-explains-how-hdcp-breaks-your-hdtv-and-how-to-fix-it/
  
  Links to this splitter to strip HDCP
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xRvCwtLLV6I
- Here is an alternative Piped link(s):
  
  https://m.piped.video/watch?v=xRvCwtLLV6I
  
  Piped is a privacy-respecting open-source alternative frontend to YouTube.
  
  I'm open-source; check me out at GitHub.
  
  Good bot!
I never used these. I do get a complimentary amazon prime subscription, so can I use a capture card to screen record/rip 4k content from prime?
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  I have a decent gaming PC, amazon prime video. Is there a way I can verify that it records 4k? I'm also looking to upload/seed this somewhere.
Can you still get working ones? My old tv won’t get a signal from my new receiver because it’s not got a sufficient hdcp version. Would one of these work to avoid a new tv?
- Q: Can you still get working ones? I presume so, they come from China, and I found another from Amazon a while back when I did some crazy updates to my setup. (3 HDMI outputs, Games gets split to the TV and to another Splitter which gets intercepted by a automatic switch. This switch has the game signal, but also an HDMI override signal that goes to my laptop or Tablet. That input goes to another splitter that goes to HDMI 2 on my TV and to my HDMI Recorded. This lets me play games while recording whats on my iPad, and lets me monitor my output just in case)
  
  Q: Would one of these work to avoid a new TV? Maybe? Not sure TBH, though for the $9-$20 I've seen these for it's worth looking up.
- This website says yes a proper splitter will allow you to use your old TV
  
  https://www.howtogeek.com/208917/htg-explains-how-hdcp-breaks-your-hdtv-and-how-to-fix-it/
  
  They link to this splitter:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/
I'm terribly sorry for your loss. Here is some music to help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJWYTetgsns
- Here is an alternative Piped link(s):
  
  https://www.piped.video/watch?v=cJWYTetgsns
  
  Piped is a privacy-respecting open-source alternative frontend to YouTube.
  
  I'm open-source; check me out at GitHub.
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  And here's your link without the damn tracker: https://youtu.be/G44xTr8D_bw
  
  Here is an alternative Piped link(s):
  
  https://piped.video/G44xTr8D_bw?si=v0GJ8s674eT065NT
  
  Piped is a privacy-respecting open-source alternative frontend to YouTube.
  
  I'm open-source; check me out at GitHub.
Can I ask a little more about your setup? What is your recorder, is it like a cap card or a dedicated system?
- I don't want to spill the beans on what I'm currently using since I don't want it to be patched. But I can tell you what I use to use before my current config. Since apps and devices have updated to a point I found better ones.
  
  I use to run an old Samsung Tablet with USB C video out and one of those Amazon bargain bin tablets with HDMI.
  
  Once this bad boy strips the HDCP any old HDMI recorder can record the signal. At a time I used the Elgato HD60, but I've moved on since due to HDR content causing it problems.
display port is better
- It absolutely is, but that's not relevant for this post.
  
  k

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