I tend to avoid opinion articles (especially in NYT), but this one is pretty on point and comes with facts to bear.
Tldr: Junk food producers are profiteering off of the climate crisis, using the fact that their foods are generally shelf stable due to all the preservatives, to outsell fresh food sources. This is due to three factors: lack of education, lack of government oversight/regulation, and poor resource management.
Agreed, the NYT opinion section has been pretty suspect for a long time now but they can still stumble into the truth.
I think the main issue is people not having the resources to eat better and it's going to be a bonanza for these companies.