We went to the Korean east sea and had a hotel with a great ocean view so I got up at 4:45 am to photograph the sunrise.
Interestingly the photo looked amazing on the back of my camera but once I pulled in the raw file to Darktable it needed quite some work to get it to look like the JPEG on the back of the camera, but I got quite close.
I've not used Darktable, but in 🏴☠️the other famous option🏴☠️ I often find just hitting the "auto" button is a good first step to get from the flat RAW to something that looks punchy. Not a final step, but a first one.
Love the photo. The subtle slight red of sunrise in the middle is just sublime. Your story reminds me of when I lived in Busan, in an apartment that overlooked Haeundae, and from which we could just barely make out the Japanese island of Tsushima, when atmospheric conditions were just right.