Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S
Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S
I'm looking to buy an intermediate level printer to upgrade from a MK2, and I'm deciding between a P1S vs a MK4.
I have never considered getting anything other than a Prusa, since I've had such good experiences using mine, however I heard that recently they've switched away from their open source model(?)
That and being made in the EU was the main differentiating factor for me, however I do hear really good things about Bambu printers.
Does anyone have experience with either?
Edit: Found a lot of the information I was looking for here: https://lemmy.world/post/9500502
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If you are looking for an opinion on the MK4, I've had one since August.
The printer itself is fantastic, but I have gripes.
The auto bed leveling isn't perfect, it tried to destroy my print bed at least once. But with new firmware it hasn't happened since.
The swappable nozzles are great but way too fiddly to remove. Love how clean the process is though.
GUI and interface as a little slow. Wished they gave it more power, or less to draw.
Bed leveling can leave drops of filament on the bed.
But all of this is just gripes. I have very happy with my purchase and would buy another if the need arises.
It kinda blows my mind that the bed leveling calibration is still doing that. I have a modified MK3S printer profile setup in Prusa slicer to keep the temperature below the oozing point (usually 180C works) until after the process because of this.
The MK4 touches the nozzle to the bed during probing where the MK3 does not. I do the same with my nozzle temp on the MK3 which I don’t know why Prusa hasn’t just made as standard yet.
Ah, that explains it. Doesn't it seem weird to you that they would design it that way with such an obvious flaw?
TBH I’m not a huge fan of using the nozzle for probing, but I wouldn’t call it a flaw. It works pretty well as long as the nozzle is clean.
Well I mean, if it's leaving material behind that affects the first layer I would call that flawed. If not, then no biggie.
The nozzle temp is 170 by default and it does it.
That's odd. Could be something with the filament maybe?
Just edit your start g-code to use a colder temperature. I don't have a Mk4, just a mk3s+. I use a temperature of 160C for the start routine to prevent any dribbles from happening.