I figured you'd be concerned about music generating AI.
Personally, I'm all for it. In the early days of image generation AI you'd see lots of wild abstract outputs from the intermediate layers/processes. If we can get music to sound like that I think it would be amazing.
The thing about algorithmically generated art is that it's basically a faucet - turn it on and get as much as you want. So there's a danger of oversaturation, but that's basically the case in a lot of genres of human-generated music already. It makes valuing art tricky.
I hate to say it, but it's probably an acceptable amount of flatness for a jobsite saw. I'm willing to bet their cast iron offerings have better tolerances. You do have the safety features, though.
Excellent information! Yeah, it seemed to me that the cost increase was more than just inflation. As I said elsewhere in the thread, my impression is that their reputation for quality tools has grown, so that must account for some of the extra price. The 2003 catalog is their 20th anniversary. Maybe that means they were too established to be selling under cost to gain market share?
We'll see if we're doing the same thing with a Harbor Freight catalog in 20 years.
I'd be surprised if Grizzly's CEO were making that kind of multiplier vs. the average employee.
I think some of it might be Grizzly gaining legitimacy as a power tool manufacturer. Their earlier reputation (deserved or not) would have been closer to that of Harbor Freight's today. Now they're known to be a solid brand and they can charge a little more.
That doesn't account for the Besseys, which are off the fuckin' wall.
I just recently got the 17" Grizzly myself. The other choice was the Laguna 1412. I'm sure I'd be happy with either but the decision came down to Grizzly being able to deliver to the house. You need to be prepared to get a ~300lb. crate from the curb into your shop. There's no guarantee the driver will help you - and if they do you should tip.
You have to consider power, too. The 2HP Grizzly comes wired 220V, so you need service to wherever the saw goes, plus a plug and an outlet from the hardware store.
The blade it comes with is almost useless - too high TPI. I'd ordered a 5/8", 6-TPI blade and it came before the saw did, so that's what I started with.
I used one happily for ages, then something changed with the filters you could get at the grocery and it stopped draining properly. I took the opportunity to get a V60 and that's been my daily driver.
One of these days I'll read through the PEP and figure out why Python doesn't have do-while. I understand that it's just as bad, but while(True) feels so dangerous.
That's a perfectly reasonable question.
Bench planes are used for taking rough lumber and squaring and smoothing it for use. If you only buy wood from the hardware store you're used to seeing "S4S" or "surfaced four sides" boards, so it's already been squared and smoothed by machines. If you buy your wood from a specialty wood dealer, it usually comes rough. In both cases it's usually not really square and straight, so you'll need some means to remove warp, twist, cupping, etc.
Hand planes are the old-school tool for the job. Longer planes flatten longer boards, and shorter planes are used to smooth and clean up after the rough work from the earlier planes. I'm in danger of just recapitulating this article by Chris Schwarz, so I might as well link the whole thing: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/CoarseMediumFine.pdf
This is an excellent explanation of which planes you need, what they're used for, and how to set them up for that use.
The clear Case Mate one they were selling on the Google Store when I bought my 6a. Up until this phone I'd never used a case and never broken a phone, but for whatever reason I decided to put this one in a case. It's probably survived two drops it wouldn't have otherwise, so that's nice.
My C1 will play videos off a thumb drive you stick in it. You could move the videos to a thumb drive, or find an adapter, plug the phone into the TV and maybe mount it for file transfer?
I've settled on water stones, at least for the moment: 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit. I use a Veritas Mk. 2 sharpening jig. I also have a slow-speed grinder for major reshaping.
I true the stones on a cinder block, but I don't have to do it very often.
I suggest you take a look at Christopher Schwarz's 'Sharpen This' series from his blog:
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/11/sharpen-this-part-2-hear-no-evil/
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/14/sharpen-this-part-3-what-the-is-sharp/
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/21/sharpen-this-part-4-very-small-rocks/
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/22/usharpen-this-part-5-the-myth-of-super-sharpness/
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/23/sharpen-this-part-6-the-bevel-the-devil/
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/28/sharpen-this-part-7-the-burr-in-the-saddle/
https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/07/29/sharpen-this-part-8-polish-get-back-to-work/